I welcomed the opportunity to speak English again at the border between Ghana and francophone Ivory Coast. I had a friendly conversation with the border offiers (and one marriage proposal)
before I was connected with a fixer. I decided not to fight it, since I knew it would be a challenge to get the Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for my van, BlueBelle.
It took a couple of hours of explaining that I wasn’t planning to become an illegal migrant, nor was I planning to sell my van in Ghana, before a TIP was granted and I was allowed into the country, the seventh on my journey so far.
It was the middle of February 2019 and I’d been on the road for a little under three months. My experiences and challenges had been numerous, and I needed a break. It was harmattan season, and I was desperate for any kind of cool breeze. Harmattan is the offshore wind that blows from the Sahara and turns the sky hazy with dust, which also intensifies the humidity.
The Hideout Lodge was a 125 km drive from the border post. For a small fee, I was allowed to set up in their empty car park and use the communal ablutions. Best of all, the lodge was right next to the beach, with a few palm trees to offer shade. I occasionally ate a meal at their restaurant or bought a cold drink from the bar, but I mostly kept to myself, tidied, did laundry and gave myself time not to worry about what came next. The staff found my self-imposed isolation most peculiar and occasionally came to check that I was okay.
This story is from the August/September 2022 edition of go! - South Africa.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the August/September 2022 edition of go! - South Africa.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.
TAKE A HIKE
Harkerville's mini Otter
Sweet & juicy!
This issue's recipes all include lush seasonal fruit like nectarines, plums and apricots. Enjoy!
Big mountain magic
On a clear day, as you approach the Cathedral Peak Hotel, it happens involuntarily: You start to grin. You'll be standing up there soon, gazing over this valley, and the scuttling of ground-level life will seem irrelevant. Join us on a five-day adventure into the heart of the high Drakensberg
Your next weekend away
A self-catering house in the Tankwa, a campsite next to the Orange River, a guest farm near the Drakensberg... Toast Coetzer travelled a lot last year: Here are six of his favourite places to stay if you're planning a road trip or weekend escape.
A life through binoculars
If the name Hugh Chittenden sounds familiar, it's probably because you see it every time you use your Roberts Bird Guide he's one of the co-authors. He lives in Mtunzini on the KZN coast and birding is as much part of his day as a cup of coffee.
Wanderlust in the park
All great cities have great parks, writes Dara Kell: spaces where you can exhale and slough off the stress and grime of urban life.
The Kalahari remembers
The Kalahari is a place of magic and heartache, where drought is an ever-present threat. Drive a loop from Upington to the Kuruman River and discover soulful landscapes, brilliant skies and resilient people who never give up.
Take a Hike
Hug a baobab in the Bushveld