ALTA TRATTORIA

A Piedmontese trattoria promises to become a Fitzroy favourite with impressive dishes, and wines to match

- MICHAEL HARDEN

Let’s start – as you should – with the focaccia. Not only is Alta’s version excellent with its high olive oil content, thin style, moist middle and crunchy, slightly fried exterior, but it announces this new Fitzroy diner’s intentions immediately.

This is a trattoria with its heart in and focus on Italy’s north-west, Piedmont in particular. No tricks or “modern takes” here, just skilled, refined cooking from co-owner and chef McKay Wilday (ex-Copenhagen’s Geranium) accompanied by a deep and thoroughly impressive wine list that follows the Piedmontese lead: wine from that region, then from Italy more generally with some good French stuff thrown in and, a nod to Alta’s location, some smart Australian labels.