The last time I'd seen Bhutan was from the hill town of Kalimpong in West Bengal, India, watching the clouds roll away to unveil a transcendent view across the Eastern Himalayas. It had seemed curiously distant, this kingdom I'd only experienced till then as a synecdoche via its jams, jellies, beers and food. Now, driving along the Punakha Valley, at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers east of Thimphu, it scarcely seems more real. As my guide, Chencho, delivers a crash course in Bhutan's history interspersed with declarations of affection for Indian food, chillies, and films, another world passes by: of prayer flags, memorial chortens, and little tsa tsa shrines dedicated to lost loves. Myths of the Divine Madman, gurus, and dragons are painted on to doors, homes and even the Paro Airport walls, creating a sense of the spiritual and temporal worlds coalescing.
I'm here to visit Pemako Punakha, the first top-end Bhutanese-owned and managed property in this scene-stealing valley in the kingdom that has drawn big-hitters like Aman, Six Senses, and most recently and Beyond. It's the second opening in quick succession from Pemako (the first was in the former Taj Tashi in Thimphu), a new brand owned by Dasho Wangchuk Dorji, chairman of Bhutan's largest private conglomerate, the Tashi Group. This property is a milestone for Bhutan's hospitality industry and there's a tangible sense of national pride around it.
This story is from the November 2023 - January 2024 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the November 2023 - January 2024 edition of Condé Nast Traveller India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
TOP RESTAURANT AWARDS 2023
The ranking of India's 50 most exciting restaurants was revealed at a glittering ceremony at the Taj Lands End, Mumbai. Returning after a three-year hiatus, the event was a true celebration of the industry and the brightest stars of the fraternity showed up to support and cheer each other on!
ON THE GO
Our pick of the most stylish finds and travel related news
TANGIER RISING
THE CREATIVE VISIONARIES OF MOROCCO'S OFT-ROMANTICISED PORT CITY ARE TELLING A NEW STORY.
BRUSHES WITH NATURE
On the snowy Japanese island of Hokkaido, a rich seam of creativity and craftsmanship is deeply rooted in the physical world-and in a sacred Ainu tradition that has survived here for centuries
KOLKATA: A WINDOW TO THE FUTURE
In a city filled with colonial nostalgia, a a new restoration story and fresh approaches are changing the narrative, one building at a time.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
From Paris to Portofino via Los Angeles, the fashion designer shares the places and personal stories that have inspired her first fragrance collection
SHOPPING IN SEOUL
South Korea's capital may have grown into a pop-culture powerhouse, but its artisans are keeping ancient craft traditions alive.
POSTCARD FROM COLOGNE
Rimowa's Emelie De Vitis on her favourite places for espressos, botanical cocktails, relaxed dinners, art, architecture, and history in the German city that she and the cult luggage brand call home
DEEP DIVE DUBAI
Residents know there's more to this diverse emirate than meets the eye. The ones who shaped it share their favourite spots.
Winter Wanderlust
Embrace the best of the season with these standout winter experiences.