Only one patch of this Damascus suburb remains mostly intact and operational again: the cemetery.Majid Ajouz and his uncle went back to washing bodies and burying them here after the regime of Bashar al-Assad collapsed in December and former residents started visiting this ancient neighborhood.On a recent sunny afternoon, Ajouz dug a fresh grave, and mourners laid a 65-yearold man to rest amid shattered gravestones left by the fighting. Little else remains of the former rebel stronghold, where more than a quartermillion people lived before the civil war began in 2011.The scale of destruction in Jobar ranks among the heaviest across Syria, an enormous challenge for a new government that needs to rebuild the shattered country to ensure stability and bring refugees back. Estimates of the nationwide cost have run to at least $400 billion for an impoverished country mostly cut off from the world by a crippling patchwork of U.S. and European sanctions.Still, it is a crucial task. The fighting displaced about half Syria's prewar population of about 22 million, either abroad or to other parts of the country. Many are economically stressed and eager to return but have nothing to come back to.Jobar and other eastern suburbs were strategically significant as gateways to the capital. The regime contested them with full force, raining down barrel bombs and even chemical weapons in fighting from 2013 until a surrender deal emptied the area in 2018.Thousands of homes and shops, several mosques and Syria's most revered synagogue have all been severely damaged, turned into piles of rubble.Not far from the largely spared center of Damascus, Jobar faces the challenge of rebuilding virtually from scratch."They took everything. They left us nothing," said Maher Salha, who returned briefly in late January to show his 10-year-old son what would have been his home.Salha, 46, wants the new government to provide mobile homes so that residents can at least stay on their land while they wait for reconstruction. "We want to be done with suitcases," Salha said.Many others are waiting for international funds to start flowing. The Syrian Red Crescent sent a team to Jobar in late January to assess the danger of mines and unexploded ordnance, an early step in a long journey toward recovery. The new Damascus governor has promised to help rebuild Jobar but urged residents to be patient.During the civil war, fighters holed up in Jobar for years, including some from the Nusra Front, which renamed itself Hayat Tahrir al-Sham and now controls Damascus. The surrender deal saw the rebel holdouts bused to the northwestern Idlib province. Rebels there led by HTS set up a provisional government and launched a lightning advance on key Syrian cities late last year.Among the HTS fighters who participated was Jobar resident Mohammed Shaker Abu Nour, who fought the regime for years and then evacuated to Idlib in 2018. When the rebels conquered Damascus, he came straight back to his old neighborhood. "When I returned to my city, it was as if I was brought back to life," he said.

Syrian Suburb Grapples With Ruin

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