Behind the Island's Black Pork Craze Is a Native Breed at Risk of Extinction

Once reared by almost all households on Jeju, only 350 of the island's purebred black pigs are left today.

- Wendy Teo

On the holiday island of Jeju, it is hard to miss the Jeju black pork barbecue restaurants that seem to lurk in every corner. In fact, there are more than 500 such eateries on the island of some 700,000 residents.

In South Korea, grilled pork belly, or samgyeopsal, is so popular that there is a day to commemorate the Koreans' love for the fatty cut - March 3 - an onomatopoeic pun on samgyeopsal.

And the most favoured source of pork for this beloved dish is the Jeju black pig, which is said to taste so good that it does not require seasoning.

However, unknown to many diners, the Jeju black pork commonly served in restaurants is crossbred, not the purebred Jeju black pig, which is actually an endangered species.

The Jeju black pig eaten most widely today is a hybrid of the native breed and imported breeds like Berkshire, Hampshire and Landrace, said Jeju Livestock and Life Sciences Research Institute director Kim Dae-Cheol.

But the crossbred black pigs have gained popularity at the expense of the native species.

"In the past, Korea was a poor country. The production quantity of meat was crucial, but the Jeju native black pig produced less meat compared with foreign breeds with higher meat yield like Berkshire and Landrace, leading to a decline in the native pig population," Mr Kim told The Straits Times.

RISK OF EXTINCTION

In the olden days, it was common for every Jeju household to rear one or two native black pigs.

The pigs were a cheap source of protein as they fed on human waste, while also producing fertiliser for farming and even protecting households by fending off snakes.