De la panza sale la danza

In the land of jamón, tapas, gazpacho and flamenco, Spanish cuisine—studded with its superlative seafood—fuels the furnace within, declares Tom Parker Bowles

- Tom Parker Bowles

I REMEMBER a lunch, a few years back, in one of those legends of proper Madrid eating. It may have been Botín (300 years old this year) or La Bola (a mere 155 years young), but it certainly involved meat. Lots and lots of meat—wobbling pig trotters coated in breadcrumbs and softly seductive Madrid-style tripe; slow-simmered stews, tiny lamb chops and whole suckling pigs, artfully hewn. There was a table of youngish Americans next door who, having perused the menu with some consternation, politely asked a table of old-school Madrileños zanjadors what the Spanish was for 'vegetarian'. 'Loco!' roared one old trencherman, a mischievous glint in his eye. They made their excuses and left.