Dodging bullets is a skill that Washington winemakers have honed in recent vintages. In the face of threats including excessive heat, killer frost and wildfire smoke, they still managed to make impressive wines.
That's a testament not only to their determination, but also to the superiority of the terroir in Washington's Columbia Valley.
The 2019 reds that now dominate the market are a prime example of that. The growing season was nearly ideal until a statewide frost arrived in early October, ending the harvest and leaving some late ripening Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other reds hanging on the vines. The state's largest producer, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, lost about 20% of its crop. That means fewer bottles of Washington reds for consumers, yet the overall quality of the offerings remains high.
That's the upshot, based on my blind tastings of nearly 350 wines in our Napa office since my last full report on Washington ("Standing Strong," Oct. 15, 2021), including more than 100 wines that were featured in my Washington wine focus last summer (June 30, 2022). My preliminary rating of the 2019 vintage was 89-92 on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, which reflected caution over the impact of the freeze. After tasting a full range of wines, however, I rate the vintage 94 points overall.
At Cayuse, Christophe Baron and Elizabeth Bourcier once again set the pace with two 97-point Syrahs: the Walla Walla Valley Cailloux Vineyard 2019 ($92) and Walla Walla Valley En Chamberlin Vineyard 2019 ($92). Their No Girls Syrah Walla Walla Valley La Paciencia Vineyard 2019 ($76) also earned 97 points.
Grown in rocky soils, these are all boldly flavored wines that retain detail and dimension. Grenache is another house specialty, and the Horsepower Walla Walla Valley Sur Echalas Vineyard 2019 (95 points, $122) is vibrant, earthy and complex.
This story is from the March 31, 2023 edition of Wine Spectator.
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This story is from the March 31, 2023 edition of Wine Spectator.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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