NAPA'S ULTIMATE THROWBACK
Wine Spectator|September 30, 2022
CHARDONNAY AND PINOT NOIR HOUSE EL MOLINO THRIVES IN NAPA CABERNET COUNTRY
MARYANN WOROBIEC
NAPA'S ULTIMATE THROWBACK

''The fact that we make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a vineyard in Rutherford is a bit of a tough story," admits El Molino owner Lily Berlin.

In the heart of Napa Valley, ground zero for $300 bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon, spa resorts, and world-class restaurants, lies El Molino's 68-acre vineyard. Nearby, a modest combination of the family home and winery sits a few miles north of St. Helena, just off Highway 29. It's the site of one of the first wineries in Napa, dating to 1871. It's a charming home, a multigenerational, family-owned winery-and it's also a bit of a time capsule. El Molino wines have been made the exact same way, with the same equipment, since its resurrection with the 1987 vintage. Even the label is the same as the 1871 version.

El Molino might be an anomaly in its neighborhood. “Napa is mostly planted to Cabernet. Well, why is that?” challenges Berlin. “You might tell me it’s because the terroir supports Cabernet. But is that true? Napa seems like a pretty great place to grow a lot of things, and if you look at the history of Napa, there were a lot of crops grown here.”

Beyond the curiosity of making Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Napa, there’s a deeper story here. It’s about tradition, a family’s single-minded vision, a respect of the past, and, most importantly, outstanding Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Berlin, 50, is the woman propelling the vision of El Molino today. She’s a determined and focused woman with bright aquamarine eyes and a steady gaze. She lives with her husband Jon, 49, and three children—Clementine, 17; Beatrice, 16; and Edward, 11—in the St. Helena home and winery where she grew up.

This story is from the September 30, 2022 edition of Wine Spectator.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the September 30, 2022 edition of Wine Spectator.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM WINE SPECTATORView All
Drouhin Expands its Burgundy Acreage
Wine Spectator

Drouhin Expands its Burgundy Acreage

Maison Joseph Drouhin has purchased two estates in Burgundy, totaling nearly 50 acres of vineyards: Château de Chasselas in St.-Véran and the Rapet estate in St.-Romain.

time-read
1 min  |
September 30, 2023
Gallo Buys Notable Pinot Noir Player
Wine Spectator

Gallo Buys Notable Pinot Noir Player

America's largest wine company continues to expand, particularly with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

time-read
1 min  |
September 30, 2023
Brad Pitt and the Perrin Family Get in the Gin Game
Wine Spectator

Brad Pitt and the Perrin Family Get in the Gin Game

After a decade of building the Côtes de Provence-based Miraval brand together, Brad Pitt and Famille Perrin have decided to partner in the spirits industry with Gardener gin.

time-read
1 min  |
September 30, 2023
Jack Daniel's, Bad Spaniels and the Supreme Court
Wine Spectator

Jack Daniel's, Bad Spaniels and the Supreme Court

\"This case is about dog toys and whiskey, two items seldom appearing in the same sentence.\"

time-read
2 mins  |
September 30, 2023
THE MARTINELLI STORY
Wine Spectator

THE MARTINELLI STORY

LOVE SONOMA PINOT NOIR AND ZINFANDEL? THANK THE HARD WORK OF FIVE GENERATIONS OF THIS CALIFORNIA GRAPE-GROWING FAMILY

time-read
10+ mins  |
September 30, 2023
Exploration Brings Rewards
Wine Spectator

Exploration Brings Rewards

Part of the beauty of wine is the opportunity to expand horizons. Often there's also a value element to less-known wines.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 30, 2023
2020 Cabernet Intel: Spottswoode
Wine Spectator

2020 Cabernet Intel: Spottswoode

The Napa winery was able to thread the needle, with most of its harvest already fermenting before the smoke rolled in.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 30, 2023
Paneer: A Simple Recipe to Make at Home
Wine Spectator

Paneer: A Simple Recipe to Make at Home

There's a lot to like about paneer, the fresh cheese that's a major staple of Indian cuisine.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 30, 2023
Scientists Identify Byzantine Era Grapes
Wine Spectator

Scientists Identify Byzantine Era Grapes

Archaeologists digging in the Negev desert in southern Israel have uncovered evidence of a booming wine industry dating back more than 1,500 years.

time-read
3 mins  |
September 30, 2023
Château Haut-Brion Owner Buys Significant Wine Book Collection
Wine Spectator

Château Haut-Brion Owner Buys Significant Wine Book Collection

In April 2022, Sonomabased antiquarian bookseller Ben Kinmont oversaw the sale of the Thackrey Library, a valuable collection of more than 700 tomes and documents assembled by California winemaker Sean Thackrey.

time-read
1 min  |
September 30, 2023