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I WAS SMITTEN BY my now-husband Patrick over his first bowl of yukgaejang. Something about him crying hot and spicy tears of joy did me in. In fact, the first time Patrick met my extended family, we went to a Korean restaurant in downtown Los Angeles. The yukgaejang there was significantly spicier than the one I had cooked for him and had no less than a half-inch of glistening red oil floating on&nbsp; top. As he dug in, I could hear chairs shifting around the dining room; my parents, uncles, and aunts literally repositioned themselves to watch him. Sweating and sniffling immediately, Patrick hunched over that steaming-hot bowl of yukgaejang and went to town like it was his one and only ticket to marry me. (We married soon after and now have three boys together.) Marrying Patrick was an exercise in cultural tourism: he, an American boy rooted in the South Side of Chicago, and me, a Korean girl born and raised in Paraguay by parents who firmly held on to the traditions of their motherland. Despite it all, he says to me, &ldquo;When I think about your parents and how you grew up so differently from me, I feel so grateful for you just as you are.&rdquo; This is the kind of spice that gives me the sniffles.
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YUKGAEJANG
SERVES 8 3 HR 30 MIN 
Making yukgaejang is worth the time and effort, especially since you&rsquo;ll end up with one big batch to reheat over the course of a few meals. Serve it with a bowl of rice, as is traditionally done.
1 lb. beef brisket 
1 medium onion, peeled,&nbsp; &frac12; left whole, &frac12; thinly sliced 
6 dried or fresh shiitake&nbsp; mushrooms 
3 tbsp. gochugaru 
3 tbsp. toasted sesame oil 
2 tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce
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2 tbsp. minced garlic (about 6 cloves) 
1 tbsp. (or more) kosher salt 
1&frasl;2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 
1 c. dried gosari, soaked in hot water 
30 minutes and cut into 2" pieces 
1 leek, quartered lengthwise and cut into 2" strips 
6 oz. mung bean sprouts 
1 c. dangmyeon, soaked in hot water&nbsp; 30 minutes (optional) 
Cooked white rice and fresh&nbsp; parsley, for serving&nbsp;
1. In a large pot, cover brisket with cool water. Let soak 30 minutes. Drain, rinse, and return brisket to pot. Add 14 c. water, whole onion half, and mushrooms and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered and occasionally skimming off fat and scum that come to the top with a ladle or large spoon, 1 hour 30 minutes.
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2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine gochugaru, oil, soy sauce, garlic, salt, and pepper.
3. Remove pot from heat. Discard onion half. Scoop out brisket and mushrooms into a medium bowl and let cool. Discard onion half. Thinly slice brisket into bitesize pieces, about 14" thick and 1/2" long. Thinly slice mushrooms. Return brisket and mushrooms to pot.
4. Add sliced onions, gochugaru mixture, gosari, leek, and bean sprouts to pot. Stir to combine. Cook over medium-high heat and boil about 30 minutes. If using, add soaked dangmyeon during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
5. Divide soup among bowls. Top with parsley. Serve with rice alongside.
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