Like a language, wine must be learned; theoretically, anyone can master the lexicon if they apply themselves. But wine as a subject also encompasses history, culture, science, even certain religions.
For aspiring sommeliers - or anyone with the desire to work in wine-growing up in a Western society, where wine is culturally accepted, makes pursuing these careers easier. For the language of wine was written in English and European romance languages. Even tasting notes reflect the shared experience of Western food, from fruits to spices.
So, how does an aspiring sommelier hailing from a non-traditional, even non-existent wine culture or a family, society or religion that disapproves of alcohol- get their start? And how do they compete with their peers born with the advantage of origin?
Nutawan Jumpanak
Chief sommelier at Anantara Hotels, Bangkok, Thailand From Chaiyaphum province, Thailand
Waterfalls, rice paddies and mountains fill the vistas of Chaiyaphum province in central northeastern Thailand where Nutawan (Nuch) grew up. Nuch's upbringing in this small region on the western edge of the larger zone of Isan, known for its spicy cuisine, never included wine.
In 2004, Nuch graduated from high school and moved to Bangkok to work as a bartender at the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa (now the
Antara Riverside Bangkok Resort). She practised communicating in English by reading the back label of wine bottles on the job. When I first started working in hospitality, especially in a bar, my family did not approve. Where I come from, people get intoxicated on cheap, locally distilled spirits; a woman working in a bar was seen as a bad girl,' she describes. 'It just wasn't the norm for a woman from the countryside.
This story is from the May 2023 edition of Decanter.
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This story is from the May 2023 edition of Decanter.
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