Couture is a notoriously labor-intensive process, a luxurious measure of beads, pearls, yards of fabric, and stitches that adds up to incalculable beauty. But where does one even begin when the goal is (dauntingly!) perfection? For Daniel Roseberry, the 37-year-old artistic director of Schiaparelli since 2019, it’s a gut feeling.
With the Autumn 2022 collection, he wanted to emphasise tailoring as “a classic idea that grounds all the surrealism” of the boundary rattling house founded by Elsa Schiaparelli nearly a century ago. Roseberry’s gauntlet-thrower of an opening look: a severe black skirt suit and boater with a champagne corset, kissed on the hips by two velvet bows. The jacket alone took five fittings and over 150 hours to perfect; his first sketch had just the shape of the shoulder.
Between his atelier and the team that helps him cast and style the show, Roseberry oversees a universe of creative and technical puzzles. But amid all those decisions about which black crepe is the right one, he explains, “there’s a ceremony to” the fitting. “And when it’s good, it feels like the Earth stops turning for two seconds.”
Roseberry walks us through the weeks before the world stands still.
FIRST SKETCH, EIGHT WEEKS OUT (1)
This story is from the November 2022 edition of Harper's Bazaar Malaysia.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the November 2022 edition of Harper's Bazaar Malaysia.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
JUST FOR HUE
Bar Trigona is set to delight with its chromatic themed cocktail concoctions.
CLASSIC , WITH A TWIST
Maddy Barber shares the importance of stories in both interior and jewellery design, finding delightful surprises when you least expect them.
ALIA BASTAMAM & KEL WEN OF BEHATI
Alia Bastamam, the queen of elegant womenswear, and Kel Wen of Behati, the disruptor of cultures.
KIT WOO & MASYADI MANSOOR OF MYSD
I entered Masyadi Mansoor’s showroom for the first time and was met with his welcoming smile.
Designer DIALOGUES
We tasked six Malavsi sian designers to Interview each other, on vanything they’ ve ever wanted to know about their peers.
Mark's Solo ADVENTURE
The epitome of modern masculinity, K-pop star Mark Tuan takes us through his personal evolution, his solo career and finding confidence with the perfect scent.
OUR PRIDE AND JOY
Emblematic of modern Malaysian beauty, models Gwen Lu and Suganya share their journeys of finding success and longevity in the modelling circuit. a
The Art Of WEAVING
Indulge in a dazzling voyage through traditional arts with Habib's new trove of jewellery this Raya.
A Story OF HAIR
As a child Gabriel Llano (Oviedo, 1987) did not play with Barbies, instead, he combed their hair.
I think THIS WILL FIX ME
Wellness is everywhere. Melissa Broder questions just how well we need to be.