WHAT TO EXPECT IN 2024 QUIET VERSUS LOUD LUXURY

OLD WEALTH AESTHETICS OR LOGO-HEAVY LABELS: WHICH WILL PREVAIL, OR CAN BOTH CO-EXIST IN THE EVOLVING LUXURY LANDSCAPE? SUJATA ASSOMULL EXPLORES THESE TRENDS AND ANTICIPATES WHAT THE NEW YEAR HOLDS

2022 was a whirlwind of fashion trends embracing Barbiecore, Regencycore and Balletcore, but this year took a decisive turn towards the discourse of “Loud versus Quiet” luxury. Unlike many fleeting “core” trends, the quiet luxury movement sparked by the HBO television series Succession ignited a debate within fashion that defined the narrative of 2023. The popular television show, revolving around a media dynasty — the Roys, purportedly modelled on the Murdoch family — exuded an old-money style. Their attire spoke volumes in terms of the finest tailoring and unparalleled quality, yet without the ostentation of logos, branding or trend-driven silhouettes. It’s often said, “Money shouts, Wealth whispers,” and this ethos resonated in their neutral colour palettes and classically tailored garments. Even the seemingly simple cashmere sweater they adorned came with a price tag well beyond a lakh of rupees.

This paradigm shift propelled brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and The Row into the fashion limelight, challenging the dominance of logo-heavy labels such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, which have long epitomised ostentatious luxury. It also ensured celebrities who had a more “quiet” aesthetic such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Katie Holmes and Victoria Beckham were back on every bestdressed list. As designer Anavila Misra, known for textiles-led aesthetics, puts it, “The hashtag #quietluxury is all over social media. And quiet brands with strong craftsmanship and high-quality clothing without overt branding are finding themselves in the centre of hot debates on quiet versus loud.”