BY THE TIME I’d breezed through automated border control at Montevideo’s Carrasco Airport, received an earnest bro handshake from the rental-car guy, crossed town in rush-hour traffic in under 30 minutes, and devoured a plate of barbecue at the Mercado del Puerto, I remembered why I’ve always loved coming to Uruguay. There’s not a mellower, humbler, more reliably agreeable country in the world— nor one with better meat.
It was early December 2019, and I was back in Uruguay for the first time in over a decade. I’d justified my carnivorous meal by framing it as a litmus test. Had the menus changed at this cluster of parillas (restaurants specialising in steak, sausage, and organ meats, grilled over firewood and charcoal) in a former produce market in Montevideo? Had the stalwart, working-class feel of the place become prissy and boutique? Of all my childhood memories of Uruguay, the parilla was a cornerstone.
Seated at the counter, watching the grill-tenders flash arm and sometimes neck tattoos as they offered tastes of grilled provolone, I got my answer. If the formerly grass-fed cows were now slightly fattened with grain, everything else— from the serviceable cappuccino to the dazzling dulce de leche pancake—was exactly as I remembered it.
This story is from the November 2020 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the November 2020 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The Man Behind The Persona
With a career spanning decades and a repertoire that crosses languages and genres, R Madhavan is a beacon of cinematic excellence. In a candid conversation with the charismatic actor, BAYAR JAIN discovers the secrets behind his enduring relevance and success.
Innovation On The Go
Travel + Leisure India & South Asia in collaboration with Hyundai brings India Stories, a five-part series showcasing Hyundai IONIQ 5 users and their daily experiences with the car. In part four, Naveen Murugan, head of product for an agricultural trading network, decides to road-test the vehicle's ultra-comfortable interiors and cutting-edge exteriors.
THE COAST IS CLEAR
Ingrid Rojas Contreras dives deep to uncover the raw, unspoiled beauty of Costalegre, Mexico. Photographs by Anne Menke
Treasures of the Tide
In the tidal pools and coastal forests of Canada's Vancouver Island, Jen Murphy discovers a marine environment that's both minuscule and magical.
The North Remembers
The Pohjola Route in Finland is a blend of the country's finest landscapes, from reindeer farms to riverine islands and majestic alpine forests and fells. Lakshmi Sharath embarks on a journey that feels straight out of a fairy tale.
Through Time and Tide
From the historic trails of Muharraq to the fleeting sands of Jarada Island, Bahrain echoes with the resilience of its erstwhile pearl divers, discovers Adila Matra.
Dancing To Her Tunes
A celebrated classical Indian dancer and a fervent activist, Mallika Sarabhai utilises her art form to address societal issues and advocate for change. In a conversation with Bayar Jain at the Kerala Literature Festival 2024, the Padma Bhushan awardwinning artist talks about using the creative field for starting thought-provoking conversations.
To The Moon And Beyond
Associate project director and second-in-command for Chandrayaan-3 mission, K Kalpana played a pivotal role in India's successful and historic soft-landing on the moon. The scientist speaks to Shibani Bawa about the project, gender insignificance at ISRO, and more.
Sky Is The Limit
Flight lieutenant Shivangi Singh is India's first female Rafale fighter pilot. Hailing from Uttar Pradesh's Varanasi, Singh joined the Indian Air Force in 2017. Her journeyfrom the rigorous training grounds to the skies-is a testament to her determination and resilience. In a conversation with Bayar Jain, she reveals the challenges and rewards of being a fighter pilot.
Wheels Of Change
Virali Modi's advocacy journey began when she survived a life-threatening illness that left her paralysed from the chest down. The activist speaks to Adila Matra about the challenges she faces as a wheelchair user and her efforts to drive meaningful change through initiatives like the #MyTrain Too campaign.