I looked around the exquisite landscape of ochre yellow buildings and blue-green waters. The poignancy of his words was not lost on me, since we stood at one of the most sacred sites of Hindu pilgrimage, the Katas Raj temple complex, situated in a lush embrace of the salt ranges of Kallar Kahar in Punjab, Pakistan. I was visiting the country as a part of my book research, recording the oral histories of the generation who witnessed Partition. This was, of course, a few years ago—at a time when tensions weren’t so flared between the two neighbouring countries. Having never seen the temples, I, along with two friends, set out to visit the site, arriving after a nearly four-hour car journey from Lahore.
Upon entering the Katas complex, the first thing one notices, amongst the cluster of temples and ruins, is the iridescent aquablue pool of water in the centre, a chashma. According to the Puranas, the pool was created from a teardrop of the inconsolable Lord Shiva, as he flew across the sky carrying the body of his beloved wife, Sati. The tears resulted in the creation of two magnificent pools on Earth. One, falling in Katas, Punjab, Pakistan, and the other—as if foretelling the Partition of the subcontinent—falling in Pushkar, India. This pool of water is regarded as sacred, even magical; our guide claimed that the heavenly green colour is a “kudrat ka karishma”, a miracle of nature. He told us that the word katas is derived from the ancient Sanskrit word ketaksha, which literally means ‘raining eyes’.
But it would be unfair to call Katas Raj, or Qila Katas, merely a site of Hindu pilgrimage, for it is a multicultural, multi-religious conglomeration of monuments that, in totality, serve as a destination for pilgrims from all over the world. It is difficult to gauge the age of Qila Katas, for it is rumoured to cover a cultural period of over 1,500 years.
This story is from the September 2019 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the September 2019 edition of Travel+Leisure India.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The Abode Of Gods
Paphos, the ancient home of Aphrodite, is steeped in folklore. A walk around the old town can turn into a journey to the past; all you need is a little imagination.
Chasing Joy On Rottnest Island
Blue waters, shimmering sandy beaches, and historic sites-Rottnest in Western Australia is the quintessential island getaway. But what truly captivated our cover star Rashmika Mandanna is the happy and laid-back life that the island offers.
AS TIME GOES BY
A decade and a half after a life-changing sojourn in Vietnam, a writer returns to track the country's transformations-and his own.
PARIS MATCH
Royal roots and boho cool, French trad and cosmopolitan flair: Thomas Chatterton Williams visits the Marais and finds the perfect mix.
Spotted in the Wild
Tracking down a creature as evasive as the cheetah is never guaranteed. Jeff Chu treks to southern Africa to find big cats and fulfill a long-held family promise.
Tastes Like History
With a lineage spanning millennia, Armenian cuisine is an alchemist's dream. Veidehi Gite samples iconic dishes that evoke memories of home.
Secrets of the Happy State
A road trip from Aizawl to Champhai along the Indo-Myanmar border leads to many revelations for Florina Soren.
Championing Cheer
Fostering mindful atmospheres within corporate environments, Dr Sharon Rajkumar stands as a beacon of positivity, guiding others towards a more fulfilling and balanced life. In a candid chat, the TEDx speaker shares her journey with Kiara Sengupta, on how serendipity led her to become the first happiness evangelist in India.
Doodling Up Joy
Turning embarrassing moments of daily life into comedic relief comes naturally to Neha Sharma. The CA-turned-doodle artist now harnesses the power of her paints to create relatable comics that mirror the everyday. In a hearty chat with Bayar Jain, the self-taught artist and storyteller outlines her journey and underlines the importance of art in bringing happiness.
A Novel Take On Happiness
With his 90th birthday on the horizon, India's most beloved author Ruskin Bond, talks to Eshita Srinivas about love affairs on ships, the excitement of train journeys, and his new book that he hopes will inspire young readers.