The Spirit Of Navaratri

IN GUJARAT DURING NAVRATRI, RANEE SAHANEY EXPERIENCES NIGHTS FILLED WITH DANCE AND DAYS WITH HERITAGE HIGHS

- Ranee Sahaney

O body swayed to music, O brightening glance,/ How can we know the dancer from the dance?”Flashing through my bemused mind, William Butler Yeats’ words take new meaning as dashing young men and bejewelled girls, portly matrons and upright husbands move to the beat of dhols and the rhythm of new-age music blaring from loudspeakers. Caught up in the energy of garba, we cannot help but marvel at this astonishing display of worship-performance which plays out over nine nights across the whole state of Gujarat, from villages to clubs and public spaces.

The Navratri festivities are launched this year by Gujarat chief minister Vijay Rupani at Ahmedabad’s GMDC grounds. Every night of fervent dancing begins with aarti where vibrantly dressed ladies balance a sacred pitcher with its holy flame (symbolising the power of the goddess Shakti) on their heads as they circle an idol of the Mother Goddess. After the prayer, everyone joins the revelry.

It’s something else—this heaving mass of bodies, clapping and wheeling with twinkle-toed footwork dexterously making short shrift of time and space. Each group of dancers showcases its long hours of practice before moving on to another space on the ground and another lot takes its place. Tattoos play peekaboo on bare backs and shoulders, offering a delectable contrast to the vibrant glitter of ghagras with elaborate mirror work and bold chaniya cholis, with each graceful movement.