The Nakasendo was dotted with 69 ‘post-towns’ — settlements that provided wayfarers with lodging and supplies.
The section through Kiso Valley still connects 10 such stations, including Magome at the southern end.
Here and elsewhere, villagers decorate their homes with floral displays, and passing pilgrims paste senjafuda (signs containing their name) onto shrines.
The journey between Kyoto and Edo would typically take 12 days — a tricky hike for travelling salesmen with cumbersome baggage or porters wearing woven grass sandals who lugged shoguns and other nobility in sedan chairs.
The four-mile stretch between the post-towns of Tsumago and Magome is indicative of the varied, undulating terrain the path negotiates.
The entire Kiso Valley section can be walked comfortably in three days.
This story is from the November/December edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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This story is from the November/December edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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