FLORIDA KEYS

Stretching from the southern tip of Florida almost as far as Cuba, this US archipelago is the place to go for fresh fish, potent rum and, of course, Key limes

- DAVID FARLEY

LIONFISH ENCOUNTERS

CASTAWAY WATERFRONT RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR

When I meet John Mirabella, it soon becomes abundantly clear he has two passions: scuba diving and catching lionfish — which is lucky, because the two go hand in hand.

Indigenous to the South Pacific and Indian Oceans, lionfish are considered an invasive species here. It’s unclear how they anchored themselves in the Caribbean, but one theory is that they escaped from a Miami aquarium in the mid 1980s during a flood caused by a hurricane. Whatever the case, these maroon-and-white-striped fish, with their spiky, poisonous spiny dorsal fins, have since established themselves as kings of this underwater jungle, altering an ecosystem in which they have no natural predators. They also can’t be lured by hooked bait, which means they have to be speared.

John, who has a hardy, jovial vibe about him, cares deeply about the local marine ecosystem and is dedicated to trying to eradicate lionfish. He believes the best way to do that is to catch, cook and feed them to his guests at his restaurant, Castaway Waterfront Restaurant & Sushi Bar, on Marathon Key.

“I don’t kill things that I don’t eat, so I had no choice but to start eating it,” he says, as he’s just about to plunge himself into the Yves Klein Blue waters, a few miles off the coast of Islamorada (a mid-archipelago island, and one of few that doesn’t have ‘Key’ in its name). Because catching lionfish takes some effort, it’s rare for restaurants to serve it; Castaway is one of the few that does.