THE SUN IS DROPPING SLOWLY, AS IF WEARY FROM BURNING SO BRIGHTLY ALL DAY.
The mountains coiled around the broad valley turn to silhouettes against a color wash of lilac rose and tangerine. The air is warm and still, and I can hear what sounds like a waterfall rushing in the distance. My guide, Khun Patirop Thipparat, tells me to look up. The sound isn't coming from whooshing water but from a torrent of wrinkle-lipped bats emerging from their cave to spend the night hunting for insects.
The colony exits the hillside above Tham Sila Thom Buddhist temple like smoke seeping from a volcano. It's an extraordinary sight. There are hundreds of the creatures - no thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands, two million, in total, it turns out moving in a continuous ribbon across rice fields and grasslands, around limestone outcrops and red-roofed farmhouses, towards rainforested mountains, where they dissolve into the pink-cloud distance. The only things that break the snaking stream are the crested serpent eagles that dive into the flow to pick off their prey - an easy meal - before the wavy line reforms.
Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh. The beguiling display goes on for over an hour, perhaps longer. Finally, we lose sight of the animals in the darkness. Through the night, the dormouse-sized bats, with faces like fanged chrysanthemums, will act as a natural form of pest control, hoovering up the multitude of insects found in this agricultural region. The guano they later produce will become a highly prized fertilizer, earning the tiny mammals the gratitude of local farmers and Buddhist monks alike. Then, at first light, the torrent will weave its way back home, vanishing into the labyrinthine core of the mountain again, just as it has done for millennia.
This story is from the July/August 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the July/August 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The craftspeople of Sarawak
From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter
GOLDEN YEARS
Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades
A TASTE OF The Philippines
A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE
A YEAR OF ADVENTURE
Make 2024 one to remember with these epic trips, putting fairytale castles, cultural exchange and slow travel front and centre
Bear Grylls
THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP
BOSTON
In the 19th century, Boston was nicknamed 'The Hub of the Solar System' such was its importance at the heart of the young American nation.
BALI
Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry
MANCHESTER
A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout