Chef Gobji Mohamed is apologetic as he beckons me into Kelibia’s Marché Aux Poissons. “Bad conditions last night, so there isn’t as much fish as usual,” he says. “The fisherman couldn’t go out as far.”
He’s right about the weather, as the howling wind against my hotel balcony shutters testified. Nonetheless, resting on long beds of ice inside the chilly, white-tiled market hall is a smorgasbord of glittering fish, freshly caught overnight from the restless waters off northern Tunisia’s Cap Bon peninsula and delivered to Kelibia’s historic port about a half a mile away. We amble by densely packed sardines, bright baskets of pale orange langoustines and angular silver swordfish, while Gobji meticulously pokes and prods at almost every variety in search of the freshest and the finest. It’s a routine he’s been going through almost every week since he moved back to his hometown 10 years ago, following stints in Morocco and Paris.
This story is from the June 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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This story is from the June 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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