It's late winter, and the ground in the Douro Valley is thirsty.
“We haven’t had rain since November,” Jorge Serôdio Borges tells me as we scramble up the steep and dusty slope of his prized vineyard, Pintas. Grey clouds blanket the sky above us, but despite the winemaker’s hopes, today there will be no rain. His rows of gnarled old vines — bowed and arthritic, witness to a century on this earth — will have to wait to drink.
Breathless, we soon reach the pinnacle of the plot. Jorge sweeps his arm across the hills, showing me his land. It’s a dramatic scene: abrupt and narrow schist terraces, lined with vines, while parcels of dense cork and olive trees interrupt an endless horizon of green hills, dotted with ruined stone structures. Jorge doesn’t have to explain the challenges he faces in making wine here; it’s written in the landscape. His challenge is the landscape.
Winemaking is a labour of love anywhere, but perhaps nowhere more so than in the Douro Valley. This vast, hilly area, sliced by the snaking Douro River, is the world’s oldest demarcated wine region, declared in 1756. It’s famous for port, the sweet, fortified wine most often paired with our festive cheeseboards. But farming grapes here is no party.
This story is from the June 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the June 2022 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The craftspeople of Sarawak
From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter
GOLDEN YEARS
Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades
A TASTE OF The Philippines
A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE
A YEAR OF ADVENTURE
Make 2024 one to remember with these epic trips, putting fairytale castles, cultural exchange and slow travel front and centre
Bear Grylls
THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP
BOSTON
In the 19th century, Boston was nicknamed 'The Hub of the Solar System' such was its importance at the heart of the young American nation.
BALI
Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry
MANCHESTER
A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout