The prodigal son
Following a busy lunch shift that's seen him plate up day-boat coley tempura, Welsh black beef pappardelle and Anglesey crab claw linguine in the open kitchen of Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, chef Bryn Williams joins me at a table with sweeping views of Colwyn Bay. It’s half term and, as holidaymakers take to the beach with buckets and spades, I finish up a fortifying lunch of catch-of-the-day coley, ably accompanied by crushed peas and a satisfyingly chunky tartare sauce.
Bryn, who also owns Odette’s in London’s Primrose Hill, is something of a celebrity here, a prodigal son born in the nearby valleys who returned to North Wales after clocking up culinary experience in the South East as well as the Cote D’Azur. “When I was young, if you were interested in food, you had to leave to gain experience, but now you don’t have to — we’ve got a couple of Michelin stars and some fantastic restaurants,” he says of the region’s buoyant food scene, within which he plays a central part.
With its all-day menu and a modern, industrial aesthetic, this bright, waterside restaurant is modelled on European brasseries, yet the food is unapologetically Welsh. “Wales has one of the greatest larders on the planet. We’re surrounded by the coast and some magnificent seafood,” he says, pointing to the bobbing boats in the Menai Strait. “Then, if you go inland, there are some of the world’s best farmers, meat producers and allotment gardeners.”
This story is from the Wales 2021 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the Wales 2021 edition of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
The craftspeople of Sarawak
From ancient pottery to embroidery fit for Miss World, meet the producers championing traditional artisanal creations in Malaysia's island region.
ALTERNATIVE WINTER EXPERIENCES
From ice skating and cross-country skiing to snowy train rides and cosy cabins stays, there are many memorable ways to make the most of the European winter
GOLDEN YEARS
Join the celebrations century of statehood as the island marks half a with fireworks and parades
A TASTE OF The Philippines
A TRIO OF BIG, BOLD FLAVOURS DOMINATES THIS ARCHIPELAGO NATION'S UNIQUE CUISINE
WHERE TO STAY Helsinki
FINLAND'S CAPITAL HAS AN OFFBEAT SIDE THAT SHINES THROUGH IN ITS CREATIVE HOTEL SCENE
Bear Grylls
THE TV PRESENTER AND FORMER SAS OFFICER ON RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL, COMFORT ZONES AND EXPLORING THE WORLD ON HIS DOORSTEP
BALI
Known for its beaches, jungles and colourful temples, the Indonesian island of Bali is also home to a vibrant and hugely varied offering of local dishes, from grilled octopus with starfruit to rich Padang-style curry
MANCHESTER
A spirit of rebellious creativity infuses the northern city, with old factories turned into artists' studios and a unique sense of style on display throughout
MONTREAL
Canada's French-speaking second city mixes the best of North America with the best of Europe, from hybrid culture and superb shopping to some of the world's best bagels
THE END OF THE RAINBOW
Surfers are drawn to Tahiti's southeastern corner for its mythical waves, but there's so much more for adventurers - from waterfall-washed peaks to hiking trails that take over as the roads run out