Las vacas tienen algo raro. A primera vista, el detalle pasa casi desapercibido, pero las vacas de la queser&iacute;a Remeker, en Ede, tienen cuernos. Los urbanitas ya no recordamos que las vacas tienen cornamenta, y aqu&iacute; se la dejan porque han conseguido demostrar cient&iacute;ficamente que la leche de vacas sin desastar sabe mejor. Remeker (rmeker.nl) es una queser&iacute;a ecol&oacute;gica, y, en muchos sentidos, un s&iacute;mbolo de lo que est&aacute; pasando en esta zona de los Pa&iacute;ses Bajos. El entorno del Parque Natural de Hoge Veluwe, en la provincia neerlandesa de Gelderland, es una zona boscosa, con pueblos dispersos, en la que todo parece ir al ritmo de otra &eacute;poca y en la que no es infrecuente que ciervos o corzos crucen las estrechas carreteras. Sin embargo, este paisaje buc&oacute;lico esconde un rico pasado y, posiblemente, un muy pr&oacute;spero futuro. &ldquo;Los holandeses son muy dados a hacer las cosas de manera eficiente y discreta. Las matan callando&rdquo;, cuenta mi amiga Raquel, nutricionista, quien vive desde hace dos a&ntilde;os all&iacute;. &ldquo;&iquest;T&uacute; sab&iacute;as que son el segundo pa&iacute;s del mundo en exportaci&oacute;n de verduras?&rdquo;, a&ntilde;ade. El motivo de mi visita a la queser&iacute;a Remeker, como al del resto de la zona, es conocer el hist&oacute;rico Parque Natural de Hoge Veluwe, pero tambi&eacute;n los planes para el World Food Center, un enorme hub de investigaci&oacute;n agroalimentaria que comenzar&aacute; a construirse el a&ntilde;o que viene, auspiciado por la Universidad de Wageningen, la m&aacute;s importante del mundo en este campo y que ocupar&aacute; los terrenos de un antiguo cuartel. De momento hay poco a la vista: una cervecer&iacute;a artesana, planes para construir un centro de investigaci&oacute;n sobre creatividad en la cocina, un festival anual... Esta conexi&oacute;n entre los fogones y la tierra puede degustarse ya en los men&uacute;s de Het Roode Koper, un relais ch&acirc;teaux reci&eacute;n michelinizado, y en el hotel De Echoput, que ofrece un maravilloso men&uacute; degustaci&oacute;n basado en la caza. De Echoput cuenta, adem&aacute;s, con una diversi&oacute;n tan atractiva como decimon&oacute;nica: un pozo de los deseos de sesenta metros de profundidad en el que la voz resuena con ecos fantasmag&oacute;ricos. Ambos establecimientos hacen buen uso de la abundante caza que llega del parque natural, y que se obtiene a fin de controlar las poblaciones de animales.<img alt="En el parque de Hoge Veluwe conviven diversos ecosistemas, y el paisaje cambia de zona en zona y de estación en estación." src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/196330/583cc3a819738/1480377204242.jpg" owidth=910 oheight=511" />Mientras, en la cercana localidad de Ede, un museo pop-up, situado en un invernadero, nos cuenta las conexiones de Vincent van Gogh con la cocina. El genio de la pintura no pas&oacute; por aqu&iacute;, pero el cercano Museo Kr&ouml;ller-M&uuml;ller, ya dentro del Parque Natural de Hoge Veluwe, alberga la segunda colecci&oacute;n m&aacute;s grande de obras de Van Gogh en todo el mundo. Helene Kr&ouml;ller-M&uuml;ller, a quien debe su nombre el museo, fue una de las primeras coleccionistas de arte de Europa, y de las primeras en reconocer el valor de la obra del pintor neerland&eacute;s. Junto a su marido, Anton Kr&ouml;ller, donaron su inmensa finca de caza al pueblo holand&eacute;s, en lo que ahora es un parque natural con varios ecosistemas. Adem&aacute;s de la obra de Van Gogh, el Kr&ouml;ller-M&uuml;ller cuenta con muchos otros atractivos, como el jard&iacute;n con 160 estatuas, con obras de Rodin o Henry Moore. La otra gran construcci&oacute;n del parque es el pabell&oacute;n de caza (dedicada a san Huberto, patr&oacute;n de los cazadores), un edificio presidido por una se&ntilde;orial torre panor&aacute;mica. Aunque el pabell&oacute;n termin&oacute; de construirse en 1920, obra de Hendrik Petrus Berlage, el arquitecto neerland&eacute;s m&aacute;s moderno de la &eacute;poca, su localizaci&oacute;n junto a un lago y su monumentalidad hacen pensar en una &eacute;poca desaparecida del todo. Los caminos que cruzan el parque atraviesan parajes de dunas salinas, casi playas, que dan paso al brezo y la garriga, y que conviven con bosques m&aacute;s parecidos a lo que uno espera del norte de Europa. Vemos muflones en la distancia, caminantes, bicis y ni&ntilde;os a caballo. La tierra, aqu&iacute;, est&aacute; viva.<img alt="Los quesos de esta granja están elaborados con leche cruda." src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/196330/583cc3a819738/1480377106611.jpg" owidth=434 oheight=290" /><img src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/196330/583cc3a819738/El parque cuenta con 18 rutas para hacer senderismo." owidth= oheight=" /><img alt="El señorial edificio principal de Het Roode Koper." src="http://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/13475/196330/583cc3a819738/1480377204341.jpg" owidth=954 oheight=407" />

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