Colours Of Provence

Taking a cruise along the Rhône River showcases a slice of southern France full of gastronomic delights, and a rich history as full-bodied as the wines this region famously produces.

- Sara Macefield

Ancient Roman Amphi theatres, centuries-old stone villages straddling sweeping hills, and statuesque palaces and cathedrals standing proudly on the skyline came within easy reach as we cruised northwards on a sailing from the southern city of Arles to the powerhouse city of Lyon on board Emerald Waterways’ gleaming new river ship Emerald Liberté.

This compact 138-passenger vessel proved to be a blissfully easy way to explore the sights. Having joined the cruise at Avignon, we could plunge straight into the medieval splendour of this grand walled city which, in the 14th century, was the seat of the Catholic popes; its vast Palais des Papes an imposing ecclesiastical trophy that dominates to this day.

The maze of stone streets surrounding this Gothic centerpiece were a delight to explore with shops overflowing with Provençal treats; pungent lavender pouches, deliciously scented soaps and pretty table linens in the rich sky blues and sun-drenched yellows indelibly linked to this region.

The following morning saw us arrive in Tournon-sur-Rhône, the crisp morning sun of early summer perfectly illuminating the ruins of the castle, parts of which date from the 10th century, where in centuries past unfortunate souls had literally been hung out to die.

I was only half listening to our guide as I dreamily admired the rugged backdrop when I heard her add: “Of course, with the Revolution, people were guillotined instead of hung and this continued until the 1970s.”

I was jolted out of my daydream in astonishment. Had I heard her correctly? I thought the guillotine had died out with the French Revolution, but a quick scrabble on my smart phone revealed that, sure enough, the last person to meet their maker in such gory fashion was in 1977, with France not even abolishing capital punishment until even later, in 1981.