1. COMING TO AMERICA
Where are the skyscrapers? I am 17 and heading to the US for an undergraduate degree. After a heart-stopping 20-minute phone call (these were the days international calls cost a dollar a minute), a dean of admissions confirmed that the University of Pittsburgh would offer me a scholarship at its branch campus in Bradford, Pennsylvania. These were pre-Google days; we didn’t even own a computer. But I knew Pennsylvania was right under New York on a map. I said yes right away. Little did I know that Bradford was a small, mostly-white town of about 10,000 people, and New York City was a seven-hour drive away. I remember seeing nothing but trees on the plane ride to Bradford. My only exposure to America had been Manhattan, and I had little reason to think that all of the US did not look shiny and imposing. Instead, I landed at an airport the size of my home; no immigration counters, porters, or food stalls. And, I discovered, lugging two massive suitcases off a tiny belt, no taxis. “Bradford has one cab driver,” a kind local explained. “And it’s Sunday, so it’s Bob’s day off.” I knew, at that moment, that this experience was going to be foreign in more ways than I could have ever imagined.
2. OUT OF AFRICA
I’m five, my sister is 12—and she’s the naughty one. We aren’t allowed to eat beef. But we are far away from home, in our second home, where our father lives, in Lagos, Nigeria. We are expat kids here: we don’t know the locals, we hang out with other Indians living between Africa and London, we spend our days swimming at the Ikoyi Club. On the grounds far past the pool, under a large canopy, Didi and I have a secret. There is a hot barbecue pit, where shirtless men stand grilling skewers of beef smeared in spicy suya powder. When done, the meat is slightly charred, it burns the tongue, it’s juicy—but the flavour, oh the flavour. All these years later, I can still taste it on my lips if I try. So spicy, it tingles, yet sweet. So distinctive, I have never eaten anything similar enough to liken it to. The skewers cost 10 naira. My sister figures out how to pay; we cannot allow our mother to find out. It feels wrong, but it is too tasty to resist. I didn’t know it then, but it was the first of many, many times I would go great distances for delicious food.
3. AN ITALIAN CONNECTION
In Florence, I see a woman on the street selling little works of her art. The canvases are painted with part-fairies and part-mermaids in pastel colours with flowing hair and long eyelashes, a dusting of glitter on their wings and tails. I am 23 and my life seems wide open to all possibilities. I have many dreams to fulfil. I want to buy this art, but my companion deems it too silly to bother with; it is not serious art. I don’t argue. I don’t walk up to the woman and buy them anyway. I don’t even compliment her. We move on. Something about that moment stayed with me. Something about that art stayed with me. It would never have won an award or been hung in a museum, but it captured my spirit at that time. On every subsequent trip to Florence, I look for it. I have learnt since then to buy art that moves me, to trust my instincts when it comes to relationships, to follow my heart and use my voice when it comes to chasing my dreams, regardless of what people might say. When I close my eyes, I can be immediately transported to Florence, by the Duomo, surrounded by tourists, to that moment in my life when everything was possible, when I felt part-fairy, part-mermaid.
4. THE FRENCH WAY
Continue reading your story on the app
Continue reading your story in the magazine
INDIA'S HOTTEST NEW HOTELS
Sneak peeks at six new resorts, lodges and boutique properties across the country
MY BEST FRIEND'S WEDDING
A maid of honor in crisis, reports for duty in Mauritius.
TURN BACK TIME
From colonial nostalgia to legendary tiger trails, 10 itineraries that bring back the past.
TIME-TRAVELLING THROUGH THE HEART OF INDIA
From Bhopal to Bhimbetka, visiting Madhya Pradesh can feel like rediscovering the motherland, says Vivek Menezes
RAJASTHAN: PEEK INTO THE WILDERNESS
Whether it’s the semi-green forests of Mount Abu, the dry grasslands around the Thar, the deciduous thorny thickets of the Aravallis, or the wetlands of Bharatpur, Rajasthan’s stunning topography makes the state perfectly poised to play host to a diverse ecosystem of both animal and birdlife.
GREEN GETAWAYS
Advocates of responsible travel, Anita and Mandip Singh Soin, pick India’s top 10 sustainability-focused retreats that are welcoming visitors now
OFFBEAT WALKS
9 guided city tours by foot across India.
ON THE GO
Our pick of the most stylish finds and travel-related news
HIGHER POWER
On a journey through the foothills of the Himalayas, where humans live alongside one of the world’s most elusive creatures, Maggie Shipstead discovers the good that grassroots conservation can do.
CAN AND ABLE
Yashasvini Rajeshwar looks at service providers lining up to curate holidays for persons with disabilities
Make Your Adventure – and Your Dog's – Easier, Interesting and Fun
The devil is in the details” is an axiom for a reason: It’s easy to say. It’s infinitely harder to actually do.
Amen to Amenities
For hotel guests, the little things that have gone missing can feel like a big deal
Trekking With Teens
Travelling with adolescents comes with a unique set of challenges
Elegant Stay Away Vacays
Luxury villas offer amenity-laden features, cultural immersion and as much COVID-proofing as you ever want
Grounded
The pandemic’s pause on international flights provides a chance to reevaluate how, why, and where we travel.
Cool in clarksdale
A creative twist on a hotel combines creativity and comfort at the Crossroads.
New Domestic Rules
Housekeeping and childminding in a pandemic require a joint effort as we adapt to our new normal. Here are some guidelines on how to keep your household and domestic workers safe
Locking Out The Pirates
The maker of TSA-approved locks says trust-but-verify is the key to fighting counterfeiters
Sofia, Bulgaria – A Pleasant Pace
Take it slow and savor Sofia with family or friends.
Top 10 Travel Apps
Download these now and when we can travel again, you’ll be well prepared!