Dion is sporting a black beanie, black sunglasses (that he only takes off when he’s in the water), baggy pants, rings on every finger, and low-key tattoos on his arms. Brendon is standing next to him. With his short hair, skin so white you’d think it hadn’t seen the sun in months, and fitted T-shirt, he looks like a star student.
They’re as far as you can get from the sun-tanned, long blond-haired surfer stereotype. But they happen to be two of the world’s most talented free surfers whose approaches to riding waves sets them apart from the standard surfing clichés. As free surfers, they don’t have to adapt their surfing to fit contest judging criteria or adopt the personal discipline required to achieve success in elite-level competition. They can afford themselves the luxury of deciding how they want to surf and what they want to get out of the surfing experience. They’re colourful, off-the-wall characters, heavily influenced by all things artistic, for who the act of surfing is all about freedom and aesthetics.
Their vision of surfing is the exact opposite of the most common image of surfing today promoted by the WSL, where competitive performances and contest results are king.
As surfing prepares to join the ranks of Olympic sports and distance itself ever farther from its roots, this unbridled creativity is like a breath of fresh air. It pulls us back to our origins when the spirit of surfing was about simply enjoying the feeling of gliding on water.
This story is from the Issue 202 edition of Carve Surfing Magazine.
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This story is from the Issue 202 edition of Carve Surfing Magazine.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
2020 Wetsuit Guide
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CEYLON STORIES
SERENDIPIDITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN.
ENGLISH NATIONALS
TOLCARNE TAILSPINS IN THE LAST COMP FOR A WHILE . . . MAYBE
THE ST VALENTINE 'S DAY MASSACRE
ROB MILES AND CALLUM DAVID THOMAS MIX IT UP WITH THE WORLD’S BEST AT ALL TIME SAFI.
BARBADOS
FAMILY FRIENDLY SURF TRIPPING TIPS
GENE GENIE
FROM PAIGNTON THROUGH VARIOUS PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS WITH A SOJOURN IN THE SCOTTISH ISLES EUGENE TOLLEMACHE NOW CALLS INDO HOME AND IS LOVING LIFE
*OCCIDENTAL DRIFT
THE BLEEDING EDGE OF SURF EXPLORATION IS A HOT, INHOSPITABLE PLACE. BUT WORTH THE MISSION.
TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.
