From Grunge To Nostalgia

Marc Jacobs was once America’s l’enfant terrible—a disruptor who constantly marched to his own beat—but was also recognised as a fashion genius with a profitable business. Now, he seems to be a shadow of his former self. What happened to him?

- Asri Jasman

It’s not easy to categorise fashion neatly into boxes, but there’s a clear consensus regarding the biggest fashion capitals in the world and the style that’s put forth by their luxury fashion houses. Paris is defined by its couture details and an air of nonchalance, while Milan is known for its opulence and luxurious use of materials. And London is where new and innovative designs evolve from British elegance and tailoring.

At the other end of the spectrum is American fashion. Sporty, easy and most importantly, wearable, the fashion capital is often best represented by brands such as Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg and a pre-Raf Simons Calvin Klein. Fashion coming out of America has largely been, for lack of a better word, safe. American sportswear—a term used to describe ready-to-wear clothes that are usually versatile separates—is the go-to concept for a semblance of commercial viability in every collection. Marc Jacobs on the other hand, was anything but safe.

THE PRODIGY

Like most great artists, Jacobs’ early childhood wasn’t the typical carefree splendour. He was born in 1963 to Steve and Judy Jacobs, who were both working at the famed William Morris Agency in New York City. When Jacobs was seven years old, his father died of a longstanding battle with ulcerative colitis—an inflammatory bowel disease that targets the colon and rectum—leaving him behind with his mother, brother and sister.