Land Of Pain And Promise
Travel+Leisure|October 2017

The photographer ANDREW MOORE has spent the past half-decade documenting the wounds, traditions, and haunting beauty of the Deep South. For the author KIESE LAYMON, who was born and raised in the region and recently returned home, this is the emotional landscape that helped make him who he is today.

Kiese Laymon
The day I moved back to Mississippi after living in New York for 15 years, I drove into a full-fledged Confederate funeral procession. On the corner of North Lamar Boulevard and Price Street in Oxford, I got out of my car and stood under magnolia, maple, and live oak trees that shaded throngs of sweaty white men dressed up like the soldiers of Lee’s army. Some marched with guns holstered, hoisting a battle flag that took up two lanes of the road.

Near the front of the procession, behind a gray hearse, was the brown face of Paula Tingle Hervey, wife of Anthony Hervey, the author of a book called Why I Wave the Confederate Flag, Written by a Black Man, who’d been killed in a car crash two weeks earlier. The whole pitiful spectacle, fueled by a longing for a time when neither the Herveys nor I would have been free, was the kind of demonstration that had prompted me to run away from the Deep South 22 years ago. And yet it was also part of why, 22 years later, I decided to run back home.

Continue reading your story on the app

Continue reading your story in the magazine

MORE STORIES FROM TRAVEL+LEISUREView All

Worth Flying For

The wooden owl’s eyes entranced me.

1 min read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

The France They Loved

Before Julia Child became Julia Child, she and her husband, Paul, a career diplomat, lived from 1948 until 1954 in Paris and Marseille. In addition to his work in the civil service, Paul was an accomplished photographer who continually documented his surroundings. In this exclusive excerpt from France Is a Feast, a book of Paul’s work, out October 24, ALEXPRUD’ HOMME—the Childs’ great nephew—captures the bygone world the couple inhabited.

4 mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

Return Of The Crillon

After a four-year closure and lavish renovation, Paris’s storied hotel unveils a daringly modern new look.

3 mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

New England Modern

In Connecticut, works by some of the most notable architects of the 20th century are hiding in plain sight. Carol Kino takes the wheel for a high-design sightseeing tour.

5 mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

My Photographic Education Or, How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Shoot A Giraffe

The Emakoko, a luxury safari lodge, stands by the Mbagathi River on the edge of Nairobi National Park, in Kenya. Although barely 45 minutes from the airport, it’s a place of serenity and wide-open spaces.

10+ mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

Land Of Pain And Promise

The photographer ANDREW MOORE has spent the past half-decade documenting the wounds, traditions, and haunting beauty of the Deep South. For the author KIESE LAYMON, who was born and raised in the region and recently returned home, this is the emotional landscape that helped make him who he is today.

3 mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

My City, My Self

In a new portrait project, photographer Joshua Rashaad McFadden explores how places in Atlanta and across America have shaped the lives and worldviews of their black residents.

1 min read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

Giving The World A Human Face

Whether traveling through Ethiopia, North Korea, or any other of the long list of remote countries she has visited, writer and photographer Wendy E. Simmons finds nothing builds bridges quite like the act of taking a picture. 

4 mins read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

A Day In The Life

Photographer Stephen Wilkes—who shot this month’s cover—documents the passage of time at landmarks around the world in his series “Day to Night,” currently on view.

1 min read
Travel+Leisure
October 2017

Le Grand Musée Du Parfum in Paris, France

A new Xanadu for fragrance lovers sits on Paris’s Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré, across the street from the famed Le Bristol hotel, in an 18th-century hôtel particulier previously owned by Christian Lacroix (and before that, Louis Roederer).

1 min read
Travel+Leisure
April 2017
RELATED STORIES

THE ALT-CURRENCY MARTYR

BEFORE THE FEDS FEARED BITCOIN, THEY FEARED E-GOLD.

10+ mins read
Reason magazine
April 2021

William Henry Jackson's West

The great photographer influenced the Western preservation movement and the creation of Yellowstone National Park in 1872.

6 mins read
True West
February - March 2021

Divisional playoff: Buffalo 17, Baltimore 3

Taron Johnson’s third-quarter interception off of Lamar Jackson instantly went down as one of the biggest and most memorable plays in Bills history.

3 mins read
Bills Digest
February 28, 2021

PICK ONE:YOUR DOCTOR OR YOUR RIGHTS

As private equity investors take over doctors’ offices, they’re popularizing a controversial legal practice: forcing patients to agree to binding arbitration before they can receive care

10+ mins read
Bloomberg Businessweek
January 11, 2021

ONE GIANT LEAP

Be the first person to set foot on an alien world in ELITE DANGEROUS: ODYSSEY, an expansion that dramatically widens an already vast galaxy.

10+ mins read
PC Gamer US Edition
January 2021

LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE 2020, TAXES WILL BE LIKE NO OTHER YEAR

It’s the time of year to start thinking about taxes — but the upcoming filing season is going to be a bit trickier for many Americans due to rampant unemployment, working from home and general upheaval due to COVID-19.

3 mins read
Techlife News
December 12, 2020

JACKSON Minion JS1X and SQUIER Mini Precision

Small but perfectly formed, these affordable bass guitars bring a touch of fun-sized charm to the table—but can they compete with their full-grown siblings, asks Joel McIver

4 mins read
Bass Player
Holiday 2020

HER TIME TO SHINE!

Up Close & Personal - Beverly Hills, Oct. 27

1 min read
Star
November 23, 2020

First Taste - Don't Call It Tex-Mex

Yellow Rose brings fresh flour tortillas, vegan queso, and a honky-tonk vibe to the East Village.

3 mins read
New York magazine
November 23 - December 6, 2020

FFA Member Spotlight: Allison Jackson

YOU CAN FIND HER at Auburndale High School, following alongside Mrs. Shaske or Mr. McCracken or walking her heifer, Clara, or market hog, Woodrow (notice the Lonesome Dove references).

3 mins read
Central Florida Ag News
November 2020