Passchendaele
This England|Autumn 2017

“…It was the last ball of the over. The blacksmith glared at the umpire…took another reef in his belt, shook out another inch in his braces, spat on his hand…grasped the ball tightly in his colossal palm and…marched off…over the brow of the hill. At last, after a long stillness, the ground shook, the grasses waved violently, small birds arose with shrill clamours…and the blacksmith, looking more like Venus Anadyomene than ever, came thundering over the crest…It was the charge of Von Bredow’s Dragoons at Gravelotte over again.”

Tonie And Valmai Holt
Passchendaele

In writing what is probably the funniest story of an English village cricket match in his wonderful book, England, Their England, A. G. Macdonell seems to have been intoxicated with delight, his imagination seeking both absurdity and reality within a world of schoolboy fun. It was a world where to be English meant Empire, King and Country, cricket, villages and football. Macdonell had the idea for the book when sheltering with a fellow Gunner Subaltern in a bunker on Passchendaele Ridge during the battle in 1917. It would have allowed them both to forget the world of mud — mud which swallowed alive soldiers and animals alike and through which, despite appeals to stop, the British Commander, General Haig, for week after week sent his men to attack the Germans at the top of the ridge.

Below the ridge, a rough semicircle like a cup-less saucer broken in half, lies the city of Ypres. Since 1914 the Germans had been trying to come down to the middle and to take the city, while the British held on to it and the perimeter around it, known as the Ypres Salient, and stopped them. They never took Ypres.

Something had to be done. But 1917 was a year of mixed fortunes for the war effort of both sides. There was a German withdrawal to the Hindenburg Line, leaving behind a belt of destruction with poisoned water supplies and ruined buildings akin to that of Sherman’s March to the Sea in the American Civil War in 1864.

In April the Canadians had success at Vimy Ridge but immediately after that French General Nivelle fought, and lost, a disastrous and costly battle at the Chemin des Dames, which led to widespread mutinies. Then, capping these events, the Germans’ use of unrestricted submarine warfare was causing ever greater hardships at home in Britain.

This story is from the Autumn 2017 edition of This England.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the Autumn 2017 edition of This England.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM THIS ENGLANDView All
The Glorious River Thames
This England

The Glorious River Thames

At 215 miles in length the iconic waterway has long been a source of transport, trade and inspiration. It makes its way through fi ve counties — Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire and Berkshire — and into London

time-read
5 mins  |
Spring 2017
Aspects Of English Towns
This England

Aspects Of English Towns

Wetherby, Yorkshire History and Hospitality on the Great North Road.

time-read
7 mins  |
Spring 2017
Askrigg And The Yorkshire Dales
This England

Askrigg And The Yorkshire Dales

Looking for a holiday cottage for a quiet week in the Yorkshire Dales was proving a vexing experience.

time-read
7 mins  |
Autumn 2017
Elihu Burritt: An American's View Of Victorian England
This England

Elihu Burritt: An American's View Of Victorian England

It is always interesting to read what others think of us. In recent years we have had Bill Bryson giving us his thought-provoking views on England and the English, but a century and a half ago one of his compatriots did the same thing, albeit for a specific area of the country.

time-read
5 mins  |
Autumn 2017
Beautiful In Black And White
This England

Beautiful In Black And White

England’s landscape and landmarks as they have never been seen before

time-read
2 mins  |
Autumn 2017
All The Fun Of The Fair
This England

All The Fun Of The Fair

There is nothing quite like the joy of a brightly painted, brilliantly lit English fair with excited children grasping their candyfloss sticks and toffee apples, young men trying to win a prize at the darts stall and impress their girlfriends by handing them a giant cuddly toy and dads sportingly agreeing to take a turn on the big wheel even though they are still feeling the effects of a heavy lunch. Yes, we just love all the fun of the fair.

time-read
5 mins  |
Autumn 2017
Sticky Toffee Cartmel
This England

Sticky Toffee Cartmel

Visitors to the Lake District can be crudely classified into two broad types: there are the fell walkers, climbers, canoeists, sailors and other outdoor enthusiasts, and then there are the gentler souls who follow the Wordsworth trail, who haunt tea shops, go on shopping crawls and crowd onto steam trains and lake cruises. And there’s nothing wrong with either of these types…

time-read
4 mins  |
Autumn 2017
Walking The South Downs Way
This England

Walking The South Downs Way

My daughter was the catalyst for my passion for walking after I retired and moved to West Sussex from Somerset to be near her and my two sons. After the normal settling in process I was feeling restless and bored, wondering what to do with my new freedom, and with a niggling guilt that “I should be doing something”. She showed me an article in a magazine about a local ramblers group, saying “You would love this, Mum!”

time-read
7 mins  |
Summer 2017
The Roads of Old England
This England

The Roads of Old England

Our motorway system means that today we think little of embarking on a journey across the country, confidently expecting to reach our destination the same day. Our ancestors would have taken weeks to complete such a trip, in considerable discomfort. Off the motorways, our roads follow routes laid down hundreds of years ago, and alongside them are fascinating objects which survive to tell the story of road development.

time-read
7 mins  |
Summer 2017
Aspects Of English Towns
This England

Aspects Of English Towns

BUXTON — A Derbyshire Gem and an Opera Festival too!

time-read
6 mins  |
Summer 2017