Prairie Dogs
Oklahoma Today|March/April 2020
A traditionally low-end meat gets the gourmet treatment at this McClain County ranch.
CHAD CROW

MOST SATURDAYS, SHOPPERS will catch Doni McClain at the Farmers Public Market in downtown Oklahoma City, holding court under a green vinyl “Fresh From OK” sign. Hair pulled back, the energetic Colorado native swaps pleasantries with regulars while efficiently filling orders from a trio of chest freezers and a stand-up fridge.

“That kiddo needs a Wagyu hot dog,” McClain offers a parent, lifting the lid on a Crock-Pot and filling the air with the sweet smell of beef, hickory, and garlic.

Naturally, some folks hesitate. “People tell me all the time, ‘We don’t eat hot dogs,’” McClain says. “I don’t blame ‘em. All the garbage that goes into them. But once they have one of ours, they don’t eat another hot dog.”

With their selection of Wagyu beef and Berkshire pork, some might think they’ve been farming for years, but for Doni and her husband Doug, this is a retirement career. After thirty-two years of service in the United States Navy, the McClains had one goal: move back to Doug’s home state of Oklahoma and raise Wagyu cattle.

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