THE LOST SEASON
New York magazine|August 31–September 13, 2020
Fashion’s leading designers spent the past half-year reconsidering everything from the relentless pace of consumerism to their own relationships with creativity. What do they have to show for it?
CATHY HORYN
THE LOST SEASON

Marc Jacobs’s fall show at Manhattan's Park Avenue Armory in February. IN THE DECADES I’VE BEEN WRITING ABOUT FASHION, I’ve always loved the contrast between certainty and surprise. Shows happen with an inevitable rhythm. I might travel to the same city to sit in the same seat, in the same building, for the same brand, year after year. Routine but rarely boring—in a good season, I am rejuvenated by the ideas behind a show or the smart use of double-faced wool. I find there’s always something to enjoy and hopefully that eureka of recognition for a truly modern garment.

Of course, never has there been a year like this: completely adrift, everything canceled, factories shuttered, no customers. For what few shows will go on this season, I will not be traveling. That doesn’t mean nothing has been happening. The people I most respect in the industry did not waste this spring and summer, even if their workflow was wildly disrupted. I wanted to survey them about the future of fashion but also its recent past—what works and what doesn’t.

Turns out they wanted to talk too. For a tight-lipped bunch of creative people, I found them uncharacteristically open to speaking freely. The first interview took place in mid-May and the last in mid-August. I checked back in with most of them multiple times.

This story is from the August 31–September 13, 2020 edition of New York magazine.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the August 31–September 13, 2020 edition of New York magazine.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM NEW YORK MAGAZINEView All
Indecent Exposure
New York magazine

Indecent Exposure

Jerrod Carmichael's reality series attempts to excavate his deepest flaws.

time-read
5 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
Grave Mysteries
New York magazine

Grave Mysteries

Josh O'Connor searches for the afterlife as a sad-eyed tomb raider.

time-read
2 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
Not Her First Rodeo
New York magazine

Not Her First Rodeo

Beyoncé's country album is a history lesson, a rallying cry, and a missed opportunity.

time-read
5 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
How'd You Make That?
New York magazine

How'd You Make That?

Three masterpieces, from glimmer through struggle to breakthrough.

time-read
10+ mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
In the Belly of the Barbz
New York magazine

In the Belly of the Barbz

Fear them. Cheer them. Nicki Minaj fans are sticking by their queen.

time-read
6 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
At the Altar of Korean Fried Chicken
New York magazine

At the Altar of Korean Fried Chicken

Coqodaq's owner calls it a cathedral. It feels more like a club.

time-read
3 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
WHO ATE WHERE
New York magazine

WHO ATE WHERE

119 YEARS of PUNK BREAKFASTS, UPTOWN LUNCHES, DRUNKEN DEALMAKING, and IMPOSSIBLE RESERVATIONS

time-read
9 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
Arizona's Split Reality
New York magazine

Arizona's Split Reality

Ground zero for the rigged-election conspiracy, the border state could decide both the fate of the Senate and the presidency.

time-read
10+ mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
98 MINUTES WITH...The Lavery Family
New York magazine

98 MINUTES WITH...The Lavery Family

Beloved literary couple Daniel and Grace Lavery and their partner, Lily Woodruff, are all living and working full time in their Brooklyn apartment. Now, they have to find space for a baby.

time-read
6 mins  |
April 8-21, 2024
Neighborhood News: Patrolling With the Rat Czar
New York magazine

Neighborhood News: Patrolling With the Rat Czar

On a smokeout with Vermin Enemy No. 1.

time-read
1 min  |
April 8-21, 2024