How perfumers have forsaken gender stereotypes to create more androgynous unisex fragrances.
A passion for perfume yields some unusual alliances. Who would imagine that Marlene Dietrich and James Dean shared a scent—the libidinous Knize Ten—still less Colette, Brigitte Bardot, Jackie Kennedy, and Jack Nicholson, united in their love for Guerlain’s civet-rich Jicky?
Yet, fragrance was gender-fluid long before fashion, beauty, and culture caught up. Whether in the glory years of Creed and Caron, the creations of Frédéric Malle, or commercial hits such as Dolce & Gabbana’s Velvet collection, everywhere there is evidence of a non-binary approach.
Personally, I have always been as apparently masculine in my perfume taste as I am unashamedly feminine in dress: the two creating an enchanting juxtaposition. Where once this was considered provocative, so today those who smell me barely bat an eyelid. Meanwhile, “men’s” scents have become softer, sweeter, less abrasive and “women’s” are looking beyond the bouquet. The discerning ignore such categorisations: Sarah Jessica Parker’s latest venture, Stash— an aromatic wood evoking leather and cognac—is billed as “a fragrance for humans”; Maison Margiela’s Replica collection is “gender-anonymous”.
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Here Comes The Sun
With a collection heavily inspired by American artist Judy Chicago’s pastel-bright masterpieces, creative director Sophie Delafontaine shines light on a new and empowered chapter of the Longchamp woman. Amy Yasmine discovers how the American artist’s framework has imbued feminism into the brand’s Spring/Summer ’20 collection, with an unexpected contemporary update.
THE RISE OF THE INSTA-GRIEVER
Celebrity deaths have turned Instagram into a digital Wailing Wall. Bob Morris reveals how to mourn socially, with dignity.
OUT OF OFFICE
Sometimes, the best way to get ahead is to look inside. As the recent MCO has inspired many to explore fresh pursuits, three Malaysian creatives share their most personal account of #WorkingFromHome, leading to a revelation of new personal and professional endeavours.
IN HIS SHOES
For his largest exhibition ever, Christian Louboutin opens up his world of whimsical curiosities at the Art Deco Palais de la Porte Dorée. Amy Yasmine heads to Paris to discover the exhibitionist side of the shoe maestro in an exclusive interview.
AND THE WINNER IS …
Following the dazzling turns in ‘Black Mirror’, ‘Fast Color’, and ‘The Morning Show’, Gugu Mbatha-Raw is taking the crown playing the first black Miss World. She tells Lydia Slater about fighting for feminism, embracing her heritage, and the secret of happiness in Hollywood.
The cultural advisor in the creative department of Dior and daughter to Maria Grazia Chiuri on her journey through fashion, importance of feminism, and her ever-evolving personal style.
Linda Cantello, the international make-up artist for Giorgio Armani Beauty, talks make-up trends, bright brows, and the problem with filters.
THE GREEN DREAM
Fendi creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi’s family country retreat represents a confluence of the Italian house’s timeless savoir-faire and the designer’s own eye on the future.
BRAVE NEW WORLD
In the midst of our global pandemic, Bvlgari shows true leadership in crisis support, spurring more participation by other luxury brands. Jean-Christophe Babin, Group CEO of Bvlgari, talks about saving lives, and how the company is rewiring for the future, in an exclusive interview with Natasha Kraal.
Screen goddess Monica Belluci is proof that beauty and allure have no age.
HOW TO DISAPPEAR COMPLETELY FROM THE INTERNET
It’s not just government spying; big-tech behemoths including Amazon, Google, Facebook, and Microsoft have collected huge amounts of people’s data in order to serve up targeted ads—and then, there’s the personal data that’s scooped up in all the breaches and hacks.
The Quiet Moments
In 2009 and 2010, while on assignment in Afghanistan’s Helmand, Kunar, and Wardak provinces, the photographer Adam Ferguson took a break from his journalistic work documenting the war to create portraits of American service members.
THE MAN WHO SAVED 100 NATIONS
Daniel Everette Hale – Call Me a Traitor
Daniel Hale was an Air Force intelligence analyst who hated American empire, found Edward Snowden too compromising, and taught us almost everything we know about the drone war. The documents he leaked were published in 2015. Then he waited. Nothing changed.
CYBER ATTACK TIED TO CHINA BOOSTS DEVELOPMENT BANK'S CHIEF
The cyberattack crested just as finance officials from across Latin America were descending on Washington to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Inter-American Development Bank.
DESPITE HACKS, US NOT SEEKING WIDENED DOMESTIC SURVEILLANCE
The Biden administration is not planning to step up government surveillance of the U.S. internet even as state-backed foreign hackers and cybercriminals increasingly use it to evade detection, a senior administration official said.
WINONA WANTS TO CUT DEPP A BREAK WITH ‘SCISSORHANDS 2'
STRANGER Things” star Winona Ryder is trying to save ex Johnny Depp’s career by pushing a sequel to their cult hit, “Edward Scissorhands,” sources said.
Glenn Greenwald – ‘Journalists are Authoritarians'
Glenn Greenwald discusses what went wrong at the outlet he co-founded, what’s wrong with the ACLU, and what might go wrong in the Biden administration.
EVIL GENIUS 2: WORLD DOMINATION
No, dear reader, I expect you to die
AFTER A SIX-YEAR BREAK SERVING UP COFFEE, SANDWICHES AND MUFFINS IN ONTARIO, THIS RESILIENT CANADIAN ALT-ROCKER IS BACK WITH A FRESH NEW RELEASE, THE APTLY TITLED TOTAL FREEDOM