NOTES FROM THE PERFUME INDUSTRY
Olivier Pescheux
Givaudan perfumer
Creations: 34 boulevard Saint Germain Diptyque, Amber Sky Ex Nihilo, Arpege Pour Homme Lanvin, 1 Million Paco Rabanne, Balmain Homme Pierre Balmain, Higher Christan Dior
ESQ: In hindsight, do you find that trends, current events or cultural movements have an impact on your creations?
OLIVIER PESCHEUX: It’s hard to answer with certainty. Nevertheless, perfumers are like sponges absorbing the air of time (Nina Ricci’s L’Air du Temps is one of the most accurate names you can find). Hence every societal movement leaves its mark on creations, in a more or less obvious way. It’s still too early to know in what ways the current health crisis will leave its mark in perfume, but it will leave its mark, that’s for sure.
ESQ: Do you attribute gender to certain notes and raw materials?
OLIVIER PESCHEUX: Not really, but it’s true that I perceive rose as rather feminine simply because it has been used a lot and in significant quantities in women’s fragrances in the West. That’s less true in the Middle East, where the rose also perfumes men. Lavender is rather masculine as it’s used a lot in fougère, the favourite family of men’s fragrances. It’s interesting to note that in Brazil, lavender is also feminine. So it’s more of a cultural affair. I’m trying to fight against this natural and cultural leaning, and on the contrary, I use this challenge to fuel my creativity.
ESQ: Do you believe the future of perfume is genderless?
This story is from the June/July 2020 edition of Esquire Singapore.
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This story is from the June/July 2020 edition of Esquire Singapore.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
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