“SE TRATA DE HACER DEL RESTAURANTE UN LIENZO DE EXPRESIÓN”, dice el chef más conocido del país mientras desayuna unos huevos rancheros. La noche anterior nos ha dado la bienvenida a Manta, el mencionado lienzo. Un restaurante peculiar entre los suyos que es, además, una de las múltiples joyas de la corona de The Cape, A Thompson Hotel, en Los Cabos. Se trata del único espacio de Enrique Olvera que no está dedicado por entero a la cocina mexicana. Y por eso él mismo lo considera un sitio particularmente creativo, una especie de pretexto para buscar coincidencias entre las cocinas que han sido tocadas por las aguas del océano que vemos agitarse frente a nuestros ojos. Hay un poco de Perú, otro tantito de Japón, algo de California… Entre él y el chef Abi Sánchez, con quien ha trabajado a lo largo de 12 años, lo cual les ha llevado casi a la telepatía, ha dado forma a un restaurante que, sin escatimar elegancia, podríamos decir que es mucho más relajado que Pujol, el parámetro inevitable. Hay ceviches, ramen, mole y brochetas, una combinación que hace años hubiera remitido a la etiqueta “cocina fusión” (bajo la que se permitían cosas terribles). Pero no es eso lo que se intenta en este lugar. “El punto ha sido encontrar coincidencias”, insiste el chef. Que son muchas y que hasta son obvias cuando se piensa en ellas ante la influencia de esa inmensa masa de agua que conecta los puntos en todos los sentidos.
This story is from the Febrero 2021 edition of Esquire Latinoamérica.
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This story is from the Febrero 2021 edition of Esquire Latinoamérica.
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