Could it really be true that religious dividing lines might define the styles of wine made within this historically disputed region of France? It’s something of a revelation for Margaret Rand.
IT IS OF course a joke – albeit a joke with some substance to it. The idea that there are villages in Alsace that are predominantly Catholic and villages that are mostly Protestant is true; and it is true that some Alsace wines are open, exuberant and off-dry, while others are tight, restrained and bone-dry. Can you go a step further and say that there are Catholic wines and Protestant wines in Alsace? No – but yes. And yes – but no.
Ask most growers if their religion influences the style of their wine, and they say that actually the style of their wine comes from their terroir, thanks very much. for Jean-frédéric Hugel, it’s more about personality. ‘It doesn’t always work, and there are always exceptions. But if you look at the styles, for Catholic producers it’s generally more oxidative with more elevage in the winemaking, more lees and more malo, more flamboyance and ripeness; and for Protestant producers it’s more classic, austere, restrained and reductive.’
Hugel is a case in point: archetypal Protestant wines. And Zind-Humbrecht, as Catholic as you could get, except that olivier Humbrecht spoils the party: ‘Personally I’m not too religious, so it really goes above me. People used to say [the same] for Munster cheese, that one valley was Catholic and the other Protestant, but I cannot tell you how it impacted the cheese.’
Social history
Let’s look at a bit of background. Says Philippe Blanck (he’s C ‘by history, but my cousin is more P in approach, against the system’): ‘It’s not all religion, but subculture and location as well. And there are always contrary examples, so the most dangerous thing is to generalise.
This story is from the September 2018 edition of Decanter.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the September 2018 edition of Decanter.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Wine wisdom
Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass
Around ABRUZZO
A stunning, under-explored, year-round destination with an extraordinary natural setting, Abruzzo’s appeal lies in its rustic villages and a sunny-natured, hospitable local character
UMBRIA A wine lover's guide
In the heart of Italy lies an undulating landscape dotted with hilltop villages and draped with olive groves, where winemakers are breathing new life into long-neglected indigenous grape varieties
Lessons in LAMBRUSCO
Coming from the same region of northern Italy as some of the world’s most famous names in food, the wide range of Lambrusco wines provide ample scope for complementing meals both local and international, while refreshing the palate, too
Sustainable cocktails THE FUTURE?
In every industry, it's pretty much the hottest topic right now, but what does the S-word mean when it comes to cocktail-making? Leading experts give us their take and share eco-conscious recipes to replicate at home
VENTOUX AOC The rising star of the Rhône
The Southern Rhone appellation is emerging as a community-led force of innovation and sustainability.
Polkadraai Hills
This lesser-known corner of South Africa’s Stellenbosch region is starting to turn heads, thanks to its special soils and a close-knit community of talented young winemakers
BY FARR
The enigmatic Nick Farr, of Australia's celebrated By Farr winery, is famously reluctant to entertain the wine media or submit samples for tasting. So we jumped at an opportunity to visit the family estate in Geelong to taste some of the country's most sought-after Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Brunello di Montalcino 2019: 30 picks from a 5-star vintage
It's a vintage to bring cheer to Tuscany lovers' hearts, and the first of what is being billed as a strong run of three to come. The successful 2019 Brunello wines offer richness, balance and immediate appeal while also managing to avoid excess
Brunello di Montalcino 2019
It's a vintage to bring cheer to Tuscany lovers' hearts, and the first of what is being billed as a strong run of three to come. The successful 2019 Brunello wines offer richness, balance and immediate appeal while also managing to avoid excess