Arts & Crafts WALL CLOCK
Woodcraft Magazine|October - November 2021
My mission to create a Craftsman clock on the table saw
Derek Richmond

The Arts & Crafts (or Mission) style has always appealed to me. I find myself drawn to its typically simple, clean lines and unobscured wood grain. So, when my wife requested a striking clock for our living room, I had a good idea of where to start my design. I also had just acquired a new table saw and wanted to take advantage of all that tool has to offer. Several sketches and a mock-up later, I had developed the clock shown here. True to the Arts & Crafts style, it’s made from quartersawn white oak and, while not a reproduction, incorporates a lot of key A&C elements.

What’s more, it can be built entirely on the table saw, from its beveled crown and base to the case and door joinery. Perhaps the most challenging part of the build is creating the coved panels that make up the case sides. See p. 26 for more information on cutting coves. The through-slots in the sides reflect the style and provide sound holes for the chimes. They also allow light to reach the mechanism’s day/night sensor, which prevents chiming at night. The electronic mechanism (see Buyer’s Guide, p. 62) also features a pendulum and several chime options.

Functional, elegant, evocative

The coved and slotted side panels are joined to the case top and bottom with rabbet-and-dado joints. The glass-paneled door is assembled with half-lap joints and is flanked by two face stiles adorned with saw-kerf shadow lines. The partial back panel allows easy access to the interior for battery changes, while the French cleat under the crown makes for secure hanging.

onlineEXTRAS

Free article downloads:

• Mission Finish Two-Step

• Installing an Inset Door

Order of Work

• Make side panels

• Construct case

• Build door

• Apply finish

• Install glass and mechanism

Make the coved and slotted sides

For grain consistency across the finished side panels, start with two 1 × 6 × 193/8 blanks. After coving the pieces down the center, rip and crosscut each blank to yield the parts shown in the drawing below, making sure to crosscut the spacers from the ends of their strips. Before gluing up the panels, sand what will be the internal edges of the slots. After glue-up, trim the panels to final length and rabbet their back edges to accept the back panel and French cleat.

Cove the side. Set up a primary and secondary fence to cut a 1⁄2-deep × 23⁄4-wide cove centered across the width of each side panel blank. The primary fence should be offset from the feed angle by 11⁄2. (See p. 26 for tips on setting up and cutting the cove).

Glue up. By reassembling the panel parts in their original orientation, you’ll preserve the impression that each panel is made from a single piece.

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