AMONG LOUIS CARTIER&#39;S MANY CONTRIBUTIONS to the legendary house founded by his grandfather was the introduction of animal motifs in jewelry, beginning with the Panth&egrave;re de Cartier wristwatch, which debuted in 1914 and featured onyx and diamonds set in a pattern that mimicked a leopard&#39;s spots. His inspiration was a panther-coat-clad Belgian ingenue named Jeanne Toussaint, who caught his eye, captured his heart, and became his muse. Louis originally hired his Petite anth&egrave;re (as he called her) to design handbags and accessories. In 1933 she became Cartier&#39;s director of fine jewelry, a position she would hold for almost 40 years.Louis is credited with leading the house out of its aesthetic comfort zone by incorporating bold combinations of colored stones in reds and greens-most notably coral and emeralds, accented with black and white diamonds-in designs considered quite avantgarde for their time. But it was under Toussaint&#39;s reign that the Panth&egrave;re collection expanded to include brooches, earrings, and a bangle, with the big cat front and center.The Panth&egrave;re motif, as well as red and green stones in combination, both remain brand hallmarks to this day. Cartier&#39;s Sixi&egrave;me Sens High Jewelry collection is a case in point. Ravishing coral is the undeniable star, but the leopard&#39;s spots are ever present in onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds, the animal&#39;s glistening eyes represented by cabochon-cut emeralds. It takes 227 hours to hand-craft the Panth&egrave;re Spicy earrings, which feature 25 carats of coral, and 180 for the more than 75-carat drops on the Acraga earrings-powerful pieces whose real-life sightings will no doubt be as rare as the big cat that inspired them.The latest installment from Cartier&#39;s Sixi&egrave;me Sens High Jewelry collection features the Panth&egrave;re Spicy earrings (left) and the Acraga earrings, both in coral, onyx, diamonds, and emeralds. Prices upon request. cartier.com

The Cat's Pajamas 

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