Pink and proud of it
Decanter|July 2022
Darker-coloured, fuller-bodied rosé styles may have slipped out of the spotlight,
ELIZABETH GABAY MW
Pink and proud of it

Pale pink Provence rosés seem to be everywhere, but 20 years ago the majority of rosés on sale were relatively dark and full-bodied, and many of them lacked freshness and finesse. The evolution of rosé led to the rise of lighter, more elegant wines, along with the idea that the paler the rosé, the better the wine. True or not, this has had the effect of reducing the popularity of darker rosés.

Producers of these styles often have a long history of fuller-bodied rosés, and are today often fighting against the tide of international trends. The fightback has resulted in renewed pride in these historic styles and brought fresher, more modern interpretations of these wines, which are worth looking out for, despite the pressure for 'paler is better.

Most darker rosés were originally made from juice 'bled off' (by the saignée method) from red wines as a by-product, which would result in wines that often lacked acidity and were slightly tannic. Typical regions where you'll still find this approach today include northern Spain and its Garnacha-based rosados and, in central-eastern Italy, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo rosato wines made with the Montepulciano variety. However, producers are now choosing to make these wines separately from the red wines, harvesting earlier to maintain freshness and reducing the temperature during skin contact and maceration, so that their saignée method wines now have both full-bodied freshness and darker colour, but without the heavy, clumsy structure of old. In the New World, darker rosés are often produced in this fruitier style, but often lack the structure found in European wines.

Some varieties lend themselves to the fuller-bodied structure, often with darker fruit flavours, and these typically include Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot.

TIME WELL SPENT

This story is from the July 2022 edition of Decanter.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the July 2022 edition of Decanter.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM DECANTERView All
Inside a professional's everyday life
Decanter

Inside a professional's everyday life

What’s the best thing about your job? The versatility. Every day is different. Working across nursery propagation, grape farming, winemaking, marketing, travel and research and development. It’s never boring.

time-read
2 mins  |
February 2024
Navarra
Decanter

Navarra

From its famed bull-running capital to its dry and rocky badlands, this northern Spanish region is blessed with a wide variety of international grapes, but its indigenous Garnacha is the rising star

time-read
2 mins  |
February 2024
Pedalling Priorat A Catalonia cycling guide
Decanter

Pedalling Priorat A Catalonia cycling guide

For the firm of thigh, pedal power may be the best way to experience the switchbackstrewn landscape of Priorat. With wines as exquisite as the hills of the Costa Daurada are steep, it’s surely worth saddling up for this two-wheeled adventure

time-read
7 mins  |
February 2024
British rums
Decanter

British rums

Craft distillers in the UK are turning their enthusiastic attention to a spirit that’s usually associated with tropical climes... We explore the burgeoning British rum scene and recommend six bottles to try

time-read
6 mins  |
February 2024
FIVE OF THE BEST
Decanter

FIVE OF THE BEST

New-wave vodkas

time-read
2 mins  |
February 2024
UKRAINE A wine odyssey
Decanter

UKRAINE A wine odyssey

Fully committed and determined is perhaps understating it when it comes to the winemakers of Ukraine. Appearing more widely now in the UK and other markets, theirs are wines that feature familiar grape names along with a whole cast of new varieties, styles and geographies waiting to be discovered

time-read
5 mins  |
February 2024
Hundred Acre
Decanter

Hundred Acre

In arare in-depth interview granted to Decanter, we meet the dauntless Jayson Woodbridge. The founder of Hundred Acre is a controversial figure in the Napa Valley, yet the wine community can’t ignore the fact that his wines are celebrated by pundits the world over

time-read
9 mins  |
February 2024
Understanding Castilla y León
Decanter

Understanding Castilla y León

This wide expanse of territory in Spain’s northwest incorporates at least three major DO regions and numerous others, giving huge scope for wine exploration, with many styles to choose from. Here we discover the producers, wines and latest trends to look out for

time-read
10+ mins  |
February 2024
XAREL·LO RISING HIGH
Decanter

XAREL·LO RISING HIGH

Spain's answer to white Burgundy? Its more passionate advocates like to argue so.For a long time lost in an ocean of nondescript Cava, Xarel·lo is now emerging as one of Spain's most lauded native white grapes

time-read
10 mins  |
February 2024
Wine wisdom
Decanter

Wine wisdom

Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass

time-read
5 mins  |
February 2024