Sisseck’s answer could be read in two ways. Was he paying a very big compliment to the perennially undervalued virtues of dry Sherry? Or was this a subtle dig at the quality of the rest of Spain’s white wine production? (I mean, how high can your opinion of Spanish white wine be if you believe its best example is a style that doesn’t even fall under most people’s definition of white wine?)
In a way, both interpretations apply, although Sisseck was quick to point out that his views on the matter have moved on since he bought and started working at Bodega San Francisco Javier in Jerez de la Frontera. As he said: ‘Of the early Galician wines, I wasn’t thinking, “whoah, I wanna go to Galicia!”. Until 2011 or 2012, I was never freaking out over white wine in Spain. [But] now I can see what they’re doing.’
This story is from the March 2022 edition of Decanter.
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This story is from the March 2022 edition of Decanter.
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