At first glance it looks like a “perfectly normal” Oris Aquis Date. It’s not immediately clear what awaits you inside. Immediately apparent is the well-known gradient dial that gradually changes from bright blue in the center to almost black at the edge. Surrounding it is the unidirectional rotating bezel that identifies the Aquis Date as a functional dive watch. The grooved ring ratchets in half-minute increments and has a dark blue, scratch-resistant ceramic inlay. This, along with the brightly glowing Super-LumiNova-coated hour markers and hands, is designed for safe diving.
On the lower portion of the dial, a second glance reveals the power-reserve indication of “5 DAYS,” just below the “30BAR / 300M” pressure-resistance indication. It’s a rather discreet way to show the innovation in the Aquis Date that Oris calls “revolutionary” — modern Calibre 400. It’s clearly visible through the transparent threaded caseback. With its unique architecture — which does not include any of the “High-Mech” trademarks (like the red segment on the winding rotor) for which the Oris movements are known – it is clearly something new. In addition to the in-house hand-wound caliber series 110 to 115, new in-house automatic Calibre 400 will join the series movements from major suppliers like Sellita. Because it’s important to Oris to offer good watches at affordable prices, Calibre 400 will not replace existing standard movements, but complement them, and it won’t drive up the prices of the models equipped with it.
Calibre 400 Suits the Brand and its Base
Oris developed the Calibre 400 movement in-house and tailored it exactly to match the character of Oris timepieces and the demands of its customers. This automatic movement was redesigned from the bottom up and every detail was put to the test. The goal was to design a highly efficient and robust movement, according to Beat Fischli, COO of Oris, who developed the new caliber with his team. It was created as a response to modern needs: offering the best possible quality at a reasonable price to give the customer real value and also to underscore the concept of sustainability, which Oris has pursued for years with numerous models and initiatives — ambitious goals within the Oris brand philosophy.
After a five-year development period, a movement was created that is based on a solid foundation that can be seen at first glance through the large transparent caseback. Matte finish bridges and a single fine finish on the skeletonized rotor give the Calibre 400 a technically robust impression that is perfectly suited to the brand. The eye remains on the center of the movement and on the unique bearing of the automatic rotor. Oris has eliminated the ball bearing and replaced it with a smoothly running friction bearing, in which a steel shaft runs through an oiled bushing. Engineers discovered that problems occurred with the unidirectional winding mechanism relating to the ball bearing, which allows the oscillating weight to rotate freely. The winding system in the Calibre 400 is unidirectional. It is less complex than a bidirectional winding mechanism but is still efficient and, thanks to the friction bearing, especially resistant to wear.
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