The designer pivots into sportswear - and maintains her tennis grip on the American imagination.
Polar fleece, it turns out, contains multitudes. And Tory Burch knows it.
Too thin, or too soft, and it looks cheap, basic, ready to accept the embroidered logo for a corporate 10K. But when the fleece gets thicker and curlier, it can become something else: slightly crunchy and Waspy and knowing. Such a fleece can reek of boarding school in the ’80s, though Tory Burch also knows that is currently a desirable thing. Which is why Burch, who is not only the designer but the face of the brand, is not quite satisfied with a cream-colored fleece vest during a fitting in a showroom at her Flatiron District offices. It’s too thin, too soft, not Tory. “Do you have those Steiff samples?” Burch asks her designers, who are German and wearing black, about fleece sourced from the high-end teddy-bear company. “Too expensive,” comes the answer, and Burch nods. Too expensive just wouldn’t work, it would go right against the plan. The polar fleece couldn’t be too expensive, but it would certainly have to look it. Another batch of samples is produced, and Tory pets them and shrugs. None is exactly right. Nearby, a member of Burch’s art department is waiting for approval on a series of short animations explaining some of the more technical aspects of the collections. The animations will appear on the website, which, in Burch’s plan for the business, will be Tory Sport’s No. 1 outlet, its main point of sale. In one video, an angry little microbe attempts entry (denied) to a jacket. (The jacket’s antimicrobial—get it?) “I love it,” Burch says unconvincingly. “In theory. But that little …” “Microbe.” “The microbe’s a little angry. Let’s try the same idea but less angry. More like us.” The designer nods—of course. Tory Burch is definitely not angry.
This story is from the February 8–21, 2016 edition of New York magazine.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the February 8–21, 2016 edition of New York magazine.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Indecent Exposure
Jerrod Carmichael's reality series attempts to excavate his deepest flaws.
Grave Mysteries
Josh O'Connor searches for the afterlife as a sad-eyed tomb raider.
Not Her First Rodeo
Beyoncé's country album is a history lesson, a rallying cry, and a missed opportunity.
How'd You Make That?
Three masterpieces, from glimmer through struggle to breakthrough.
In the Belly of the Barbz
Fear them. Cheer them. Nicki Minaj fans are sticking by their queen.
At the Altar of Korean Fried Chicken
Coqodaq's owner calls it a cathedral. It feels more like a club.
WHO ATE WHERE
119 YEARS of PUNK BREAKFASTS, UPTOWN LUNCHES, DRUNKEN DEALMAKING, and IMPOSSIBLE RESERVATIONS
Arizona's Split Reality
Ground zero for the rigged-election conspiracy, the border state could decide both the fate of the Senate and the presidency.
98 MINUTES WITH...The Lavery Family
Beloved literary couple Daniel and Grace Lavery and their partner, Lily Woodruff, are all living and working full time in their Brooklyn apartment. Now, they have to find space for a baby.
Neighborhood News: Patrolling With the Rat Czar
On a smokeout with Vermin Enemy No. 1.