“From Gaby to Gabi, two ambitious women interpreting femininity in the context of their time,” reads the press notes for Chloe’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection – the first under the brand’s new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Gaby, of course, refers to the late Gaby Aghion, the Parisian maison’s Egypt-born founder; while Gabi is the nickname for her latest successor.
Context is everything. Aghion founded Chloe in 1952 and in doing so, famously coined the term “pret-a-porter” with her vision of effortlessly feminine day dresses – a stark delineation from the period’s structured silhouettes and couture houses that were all helmed by men. In 2021 however, an argument can be made that personal values and priorities have become fashion’s most powerful currency.
Enter Hearst, whose six-year-old eponymous label quickly came to be known for sumptuous, well-tailored pieces and accessories typically fashioned out of top-end fabrics like wafer-thin merino wool and even recycled cashmere. Her choice of materials speaks of her relentless focus on sustainability, a central tenet to her as a person. In recent years, the Uruguay-born designer has become one of the industry’s most prominent advocates of overhauling the system, staging what was reportedly the first carbon-neutral show back in 2019 with her Spring/Summer 2020 collection. It had a ripple effect; behemoths like Gucci soon followed suit.
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Five Photographers Who Represent A Diverse Generation Of Cultural Tastemakers
In the century since Cartier first launched the Tank in 1917, the watch has been continually adopted as the horological uniform of choice by GOATs across fashion, design and art. Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford – you get the idea. And why not? Its elegantly geometric case was a deliberate rejection of the organic shapes favoured at the time of its debut and remains instantly recognisable. Its combination of clean lines and old-school Roman numerals also made for an equally prescient, gender-neutral aesthetic, picking up fans among creative and stylish women spanning the late Princess Di to Patti Smith. Here in an exclusive showcase, five photographers who represent a diverse generation of cultural tastemakers capture their own love affair with the timepiece through intimate self-portraits.
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The pandemic has no doubt affected everybody, altering lifestyles and reminding us that often, what was once considered ordinary cannot be taken for granted. From a hyper-stylish content creator to a botanical designer who just uprooted to Europe, five women creatives give Keng Yang Shuen a peek into their routines to show us how they live now.
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Alek Wek On Finding Style And Beauty In One's Self And Everyday Life
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The Latest Fragrance Collection From Cartier Is A Scent Composed For The Times
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THE NEW LOOK OF COUTURE
Among couturiers, Cristobal Balenciaga was the master whose tailoring wizardry and radically modern silhouettes redefined elegance up till the late ’60s when he closed his namesake atelier. Now the man at the helm of his rebooted maison, Demna Gvasalia, continues his legacy of haute dressmaking with a collection that marks his debut foray into couture and the brand’s first in 53 years – albeit with modified gowns, jeans and parkas. Gordon Ng reports.
THE MISSING LINK
Bringing new order to Fendi this season is not just debuting womenswear artistic director Kim Jones and his collection of sizzlingly sensual wardrobe staples, but also Delfina Delettrez Fendi – daughter of long-time brand matriarch Silvia Venturini Fendi as its creative director of jewellery. Gordon Ng speaks to the fashion scion on joining – and getting a new generation hooked onto – the family business.
A club might connote glitz and glamour, but for Virginie Viard – artistic director of Chanel where effortlessness has always been a cornerstone – it’s also a space that allows one to be informal and truly free. Presented at the French nightlife institution Chez Castel, the brand’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection is an ode to “cool Parisian chic” spanning the ’70s to now. Here, an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at its make and low-key magic.
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