A Fall/ Winter 2020 Collection Report
Female Singapore|November 2020
(And some of the asian models who commanded the season’s runways)
Keng Yang Shuen
BURBERRY

Riccardo Tisci was in a nostalgic mood. He named this Burberry collection Memories, as a paean to his formative years as a young designer, uprooting from Italy to London where he studied at Central Saint Martins before moving to India after graduation. What’s resulted from that fond trip down memory lane has been more or less a continuation of what he’d been building at the heritage label: numerous options that cut across generations and demographics, globe-trotting sophisticates (uber-luxe coats and suits with copious lashings of faux fur) and streetwear-obsessed youths (endless permutations of the house’s famous checks and tricked-out takes on the humble rugby sweater) alike.

FENDI

Silvia Venturini Fendi has presented a femme fatale that reads as both powerfully sensual and austere in her second solo collection for the brand. Nipped-in waists and a contrasting play on filmy dresses against aggressively voluptuous silhouettes (extremely puffed-up sleeves are a key motif) – all complemented by noirish makeup – neatly charts the dual themes of softness and structure. Continuing that dichotomy is a largely sombre palette of grey spiked with delicate pinks and yellow. Alongside a heady mix of cashmere, fur, leather and lace, it all makes for one visually lush collection.

DIOR

You have to hand it to Maria Grazia Chiuri – once the designer finds something that she believes in, she’s doggedly consistent with following through. Take her pro-women messaging for example, which has been there since she debuted at Dior three years ago. This season’s show set had slogans such as “Consent” and “Patriarchy = C02” (courtesy of the feminist art collective Claire Fontaine). What about the clothes? A parade of elevated everyday pieces of a more relaxed glamour, complete with sportswear and school-boy overtones – inspired by memories of Chiuri’s teenage years in 1970s Rome and guaranteed to delight longtime fans. Paired with combat boots and leather flats, the collection’s overall utilitarian nature can be said to contribute a sense of pragmatism – a subtler nod to feminist values, perhaps?

BALENCIAGA

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