So the story goes that Gabrielle Chanel first fell in love with camellias when her lover Arthur Capel presented a bouquet of them to her, years after she first encountered them while watching a stage performance based on Alexandre Dumas’ novel, The Lady of the Camellias — and today, there can be no Chanel without her camellia, with the flower adorning all aspects of the maison from high jewellery to ready-to-wear to skincare.
And at the heart of the N°1 de Chanel skincare range is a specific breed of camellia — the red camellia japonica. Known for its exceptional resilience, this flower is known to bloom even in the depths of winter. Studies by the maison have shown that the petals of this hardy bloom are loaded with protocatechuic acid — a molecule belonging to the polyphenol family that is known for its antioxidant properties. “We knew that it was an antioxidant, but what really surprised us was that the protocatechuic acid is extremely effective on senescence, which is the process that causes ageing,” explains Nicola Fuzzati, director of innovation and development.
Healthy cells are ones that have an optimal metabolism and undergo cell division, which allows the skin to regenerate. But senescent cells are the ones that stop multiplying without dying off — and it spreads to healthy cells, causing them to deteriorate too. And once these zombie cells accumulate, visible signs of ageing manifest, like dullness, wrinkles and reduced elasticity. The protocatechuic acid acts as a potent shot of antioxidants, preventing cellular damage and supporting skin vitality in the earliest stages of senescence.
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