What Does It Take To Be A Modern Yet Innovative Jeweller Today?
ELLE Singapore|October 2021
What does it take to be a modern yet innovative jeweller today? For pomellato, it’s all about breaking away from clichés and creating unconventional beauty that lasts
Caroline Suganda

When it comes to jewellery, there are jewellers with creative processes that are already dictated by their histories, and then there are jewellers who are innovative but practical in everything they do. The latter is the case for Pomellato, which was founded by Pino Rabolini in Milan in 1967. Through this brand, the heir to his family’s goldsmith business ended up pioneering the concept of pret-a-porter jewellery.

This concept, also known as the ready-to-wear in the world of jewellery, heralded a new era. Figuratively speaking, Pomellato took jewels out of the safe and made them into pieces that could be worn every day, instead of being saved for special occasions. The luxury of the idea lay in the fact that one could wear these precious stones anywhere, anytime without losing that sense of occasion. Even better was the associated idea that women could buy these pieces with their own money, and not wait to receive them as gifts from others.

Today, 54 years later, Pomellato’s original approach continues to anchor the brand with its offerings of timeless but modern jewellery. And there’s no better person than Pomellato’s creative director for the last 19 years, Vincenzo Castaldo, to explain its everlasting style: “Outpacing the codes of traditional jewellery, every collection is defined by a new concept of timeless elegance, often surprises in the selection of gem combinations and design proportions,” he says. “We infuse unconventional touches into traditional jewellery techniques, taking the handmade culture to the next level, updating and evolving the brand’s distinctive codes, which in a way, is our take on breaking the classic clichés.”

Castaldo really means it when he talks about breaking classic clichés: Pomellato was the first jeweller to cut a stone upside down; the first to introduce facet materials with cabochon shapes; the first to punch irregular diamonds into pavé settings. To sustain this distinctive approach in a fashion-forward language, over 100 master goldsmiths combine their skill and flair, working together in Pomellato’s in-house atelier and production facilities in Milan.

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