Dedicating a Sonnet to Fashion
Apparel|November - December 2020
The Fashion Design Council of India presented its first ‘phygital’ edition of Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2021 (LMIFW SS 2021) from October 14 to October 18, 2020, where 43 designers unveiled their collections at 34 shows in a mélange of colour, style, fabrics and well-directed videos. Meher Castelino writes more…
Meher Castelino

DAY ONE

Rajesh Pratap Singh opened LMIFW SS 21 with his amazing ‘Fall.ing 2020’ line featuring a range from pretty pastels to hot hues with mesmerising hand block prints and embroidery. The fabrics included handlooms, glass cotton and silk satin. The detailing was minute and intricate with pin tucks - a specialty of the designer - on white creations.

The DHI collection which was called ‘Mirror Me’ was practical and wearable. It was showcased in organic cotton and khadi in shades of aqua, neutrals and navy for dresses. The line also included jumpsuits, pants, blouses and skirts.

Nitin Bal Chauhan brought to the forefront extreme fashion, called ‘Naevus’ - inspired by the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. Metallic rings, leather straps/belts, lacy Victorian collars/cuff, 3D embroidery with exaggerated sleeves and silhouettes were presented in blood red, black and pink. The bold prints and design construction reflected a military-like look for the collection.

Payal Jain’s ‘Holy Script’ showcased beautiful holiday wear with vivid abstract prints, in rich hues. The silk and cotton Chanderi, organza and Munga fabrics, gave her garments a fluid, flowing appeal. Vaishali S unveiled her ‘Rebirth’ collection, showcasing her corded web-like detailing and intense construction. The Khunn weave was also evident along with Murshidabadi silk in innovative silhouettes and separates.

Namrata Joshipura ended Day One with her elegant sporty cocktail line which displayed intense pearl embroidery on sharply cut jackets; figure-hugging gowns, evening dresses, high-waist trousers and two-button jackets. Feathers appeared to soften the capes and blouses in their detailing, while dressy pinafores were brought to attention.

DAY TWO

Archana Rao’s ‘The Wild Flower’ line was a melody of floral prints on wispy summer wear.

Guapa’s ‘Enchanted Forest’ had motifs of birds, bunnies, tree of life and marigolds.

Abirr N’ Nanki’s Limerick unveiled their ‘Chrysalis SS ‘21’ look that had bouquets of motifs from the Mughal gardens in soft pastels for sheer/solid fabrics.

Nirmooha’s geometric squares in teal, blush, black, maroon and mauve were a fun and frothy line created from hand spun Muga silk and organza.

Ranna Gill’s ‘Floral Opulence’ featured pleated skirts, tunics, maxis and belted dresses in bold black, ivory, ruby, green and marigold with embroidery showcasing a more flamboyant look.

Siddartha Tytler gave bold fashion directions for men and women’s wear in his presentation of lehengas and Sherwanis displayed in glittering brocade, cotton, mulmul, leather, suede, linen and crêpe as the base. The creations which were exotic, dramatic and bold, were perfect for adventurous dressers.

Gauri and Nainika’s ‘Spring/Summer ‘21’ look displayed romantic midis and gowns visualised in flowing crêpes and sheer fabrics for wrap skirt dresses, and asymmetric creations in red, bottle green and black with floral and leaf prints.

Ravi Bajaj brought retro Bollywood glamour to centre stage with classic shaded embroidered saris, ornate cholis, jackets and slinky skirts for women. For men’s wear it was stylish sherwanis, bundies and bundgala jackets in bold colours with heavy texturing.

Suneet Varma’s ‘The Eternal Lightness of Being’ was an ethereal line in soft pastel yellow, blue, lime, pink, ebony and ivory for the exquisitely embroidered creations in crushed georgette organza and crinkled chiffon.

DAY THREE

Ashima-Leena’s label showcased only bridal-wear glamour of the ultimate kind for Indian ensembles in the ‘Umme Rabab’ collection. With shimmering embellishments for lehengas, cholis, dupattas and kurtas in lush brocades, the look exhibited tradition as well as grandeur.

Gaya’s fun lounge wear line in vibrant, bright prints and denim offered two looks – the Palm Leaf print and Loungy Denims in tropical colours. Kaftans, robes, knitted dresses; tracksuits and soft pants were also displayed as comfort wear.

Naturally Anuradha’s Mekhela Chadar saris were a glorious carnival of hues and weaves, showcased for the festive season in Endi, Muga and Nuni Silks and cotton fabrics using 100 per cent pure vegetable dyes.

Niki Mahajan’s collection ‘The Midnight Sky’ also brought Indian textiles with silver metal wire and mirror work for the black, grey, blue and purple collection.

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