Saddle Sure
France|September 2020
Following in the footsteps and cycle tracks of his hero T. E. Lawrence, Todd Mauer travels from Dordogne to Haute-Vienne stopping off at landmarks along the way
Todd Mauer
Saddle Sure

Nothing is written!” In David Lean’s 1962 cinematic masterpiece Lawrence of Arabia, T.E. Lawrence utters this iconic line to Omar Sharif’s Sherif Ali before venturing into the searing Nefud desert to rescue a lost Bedouin soldier under his command. Somehow, more than 50 years after the film was released, I find myself chanting the same line over and over as a motivational mantra while laboring up a steep hill – my own private ‘Nefud desert’ – on a signposted 400-kilometer cycle route called ‘Dans La Roue de Lawrence d’Arabie’ (In The Wheel of Lawrence of Arabia) in the Dordogne.

Lawrence, of course, rescued his soldier, and I’m delighted to say I made it to the top of my hill.

I’m not certain if both acts qualify as equal demonstrations of the human capacity to overcome adversity, but as I crested my hill I was as chuffed as I was huffed.

If most people should ever happen to associate T.E. Lawrence with the bicycle, it’s unlikely to be a happy association. Lawrence’s 1935 death in a motorcycle accident while swerving to avoid two schoolboys riding bikes on a

Dorset road was etched into the collective cinematic conscious during the opening scene in Lean’s film. But for most of Lawrence’s life, his relationship with bicycles was passionate, even joyful.

As a teenager, he embarked on multiple cycle tours in both Britain and France, culminating in 1908 in an incredible 3,200-kilometre tour of France, visiting castles for his Oxford thesis on medieval architecture.

On your bike

This story is from the September 2020 edition of France.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the September 2020 edition of France.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM FRANCEView All
Paindemic In Paris
France

Paindemic In Paris

For American actor and writer Alexander Burnett, a shortage of bread at his local boulangerie was one of the biggest challenges of lockdown in his adopted home city

time-read
5 mins  |
December 2020
VEULES-LES-ROSES
France

VEULES-LES-ROSES

Between the white cliffs of the Côte d’Albâtre and the bucolic landscapes of the Pays de Caux, discover a village that combines coast and country,

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2020
Taking the BISCUIT
France

Taking the BISCUIT

France is known for its exquisite pâtisserie and extravagant gâteaux but the not-so-humble biscuit deserves recognition too

time-read
5 mins  |
December 2020
PICTURE PERFECT PISTE
France

PICTURE PERFECT PISTE

After a decade away from the slopes Janet Brice finds her ski legs in val d'arly, a hidden gem in the shadow of Mount Blanc

time-read
8 mins  |
December 2020
Let there BE LIGHT
France

Let there BE LIGHT

Lyon’s annual Fête des Lumières brightens up the darkest of December nights in spectacular fashion, finds David Atkinson on a winter visit to the Rhône capital

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2020
Shop ‘til YOU DROP
France

Shop ‘til YOU DROP

In the first of our new Insight guides, Helen Parkinson delights in the French shopping experience

time-read
4 mins  |
December 2020
Floating YOUR BOAT
France

Floating YOUR BOAT

Spending a day on the River Seine in Paris, Heidi Fuller-love samples some of the city’s top entertainment that can be enjoyed afloat

time-read
6 mins  |
December 2020
Creamy Dijon Chicken With Bacon And Spinach
France

Creamy Dijon Chicken With Bacon And Spinach

Enjoy this hearty dish from Bisous & Brioche, a cookbook shot on location in Burgundy

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2020
A Moveable Feast
France

A Moveable Feast

Philip Sweeney embarks on a voyage gourmand along the Vallée de la Gastronomie travelling from Dijon to Marseille

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2020
BOND RETOUR 7
France

BOND RETOUR 7

To celebrate the return of everyone’s favourite globe-trotting British intelligence officer in No Time to Die, Helen Parkinson rounds up five of James Bond’s top cross-Channel escapades

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2020