We Are What We Eat
PORTFOLIO Magazine|February 2020
To live well is to eat well, with the earth’s well-being in mind
Katherine Arteche
We Are What We Eat

Nadodi

Just a little beyond the border in Kuala Lumpur resides Nadodi, a discreet restaurant specializing in contemporary South Indian cuisine. Since 2017, the restaurant has garnered a reputation for presenting authentic flavors using a myriad of spices that are sourced from specific parts of the region. The result is an 11-course degustation menu that takes one on a culinary trek through Tamil Nadu to Sri Lanka, led by the young Executive Chef Sricharan Venkatesh.

Starting from the amuse-bouche, each course is thoughtfully interpreted to deliver both flavor and meaning to its tribute of traditional dishes. Pannagam, a drink made from a mix of jaggery, cardamom, and water, undergoes a molecular gastronomical transformation where the liquid is fashioned into a cardamom gel that becomes a literal burst of flavor when consumed. Beetroot is done four ways in the “Red Kari” dish, where it transforms into curry, sorbet, pickle and edible decorative shards to create a cognitive mix of textures in monochrome. At course number seven, the palette calms down with the introduction of “Humble Broth”, a light soup that is reminiscent of classic South Indian rasam, a blend of tamarind, tomatoes, chili pepper, and cumin. The dish is finished off with quinoa grains for a contrasting crunch. The process is likened to a consommé but without the intention of manipulating the dish’s clarity and being a simple bowl of rich flavors. Yet, this is not the last we’ll see of the concoctive blend.

This story is from the February 2020 edition of PORTFOLIO Magazine.

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This story is from the February 2020 edition of PORTFOLIO Magazine.

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