10 Overlooked Romantic Italian Destinations

Under the Tuscan Sun author Frances Mayes reveals some of her favorite undiscovered places

- Frances Mayes

WRITING MY BOOK, SEE YOU IN THE PIAZZA: NEW PLACES TO DISCOVER IN ITALY, KEPT ME TRAVELING FOR 18 MONTHS. MY HUSBAND and I packed up our white Alfa Romeo and took to the road. How did I decide which places to write about? I chose a base and set out from there—exploring the dirt roads through the olive groves of Puglia, the twisting ones through the mind-bending Dolomite mountains, the stone-walled tracks through vineyards of Sicily and everywhere in between. The places were so exhilarating that I wanted more, then even more, because what I learned over and over is that Italy is endless. You need 10 lifetimes, and even then you can’t say, I know Italy. But my advice is to try. Here are a few favorites, and why I think you should go there.

Camogli

LIGURIA

The name probably comes from ca’moglie—the homes of wives left at home when anchovy fishermen set off for the 40-day hunt. Gelato and pastry shops line the crescent beach promenade, and behind that rise astonishingly tall buildings. Did they choose bright colors so the home could be recognized by the men returning from the sea? Why all the trompe l’oeil flourishes, fake windows, and caryatids? A strong element of fantasy ran in the fishermen’s families. Even in November, you can have lunch outside, facing the sea. Check out the ex-voto collection at Santuario di Nostra Signora del Boschetto, which is not mentioned in any guidebook: Skilled itinerant painters recorded the thanks of those who escaped drowning, shipwrecks and falls from those tall houses. You’re a quick boat ride from Portofino. Hike the trail to San Fruttuoso’s cove and hop on a return boat. A quick train takes you to Genova. But why not just relax in Camogli?

Santadi

SARDINIA