Colourful Coast

Jeremy Tredinnick explores the thriving tourist destination of Cam Ranh and Nha Trang on Vietnam’s south-central coast

 

The night flight down from Hanoi passes unremarkably until we begin our descent and I look out of the window. Below us Nha Trang Bay is outlined by what looks like a golden necklace of yellow dots – the coastal road’s street lights cradling the land, while out on the inky black water, bright-white lights signal the presence of fishing boats luring squid to their lines.

We land at Cam Ranh International Airport, located near the southern end of the peninsula, which is essentially one massive sand bar hence its simple name: Long Beach. Though small and compact, the airport receives direct flights from Hong Kong, Guangzhou and other regional destinations, but many come via transfers through Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City – both relatively painless affairs as you switch between adjacent international and domestic terminals.

I am met at the airport entrance first by a heavy wave of tropical heat, then a smiling young lady bearing a sign reading “The Anam” – my home from home for the next few days. On the 15-minute drive to the resort at the peninsula’s northern end, she offers me a chilled towel, a cold bottle of water, and a quick rundown of the facilities and activities available during my stay.

The Anam is a new luxury property, an unaffiliated, independent resort offering 105 spacious villas surrounded by lush gardens, plus rooms in a hotel block. Its décor could be described as stylish, modern Indo-Chinese; striated grey stone tiling is everywhere, accented with black-and-white tiling patterned with curlicues and fleurs-de-lis. Classic black-and-white photo prints of Vietnamese life grace the walls for added local flavour.