With rainforest, rivers, the world’s top dive spots, unique wildlife, and sea-gypsy communities, the island of Borneo is a fantastic place to explore by yacht. So why are its north-eastern waters devoid of cruising boats?
The only way to sail safely is with a military escort by the Eastern Sabah Security Command (ESSCOM). And the only way for that to happen is to join the last leg of the Sail Malaysia Passage to the East Rally. Coves, mangroves, shoals, creeks and reefs make it tricky for pursuit boats to patrol this area. For cruising boats, though, it is a dream destination.
In 2020, with Malaysia in lockdown and international borders shut, the rally was cancelled. No tourists and very little shipping for the past few months meant nature had been making an explosive comeback. We persuaded the rally organisers to run the final leg for just six crews who were marooned in Sabah and desperate to get sailing. With luck, we would have the water to ourselves.
INTO THE DANGER ZONE
The downside of sailing in any rally is that there is a schedule and you have to get to your next destination whatever the weather. It was a windless day when we left from Kota Kinabalu, but we had three days to cover the 100 or so miles to Kudat, where we had an appointment for an ESSCOM briefing on protocols for sailing in the pirate zone.
Some boats were happy to crank up their engines and steam ahead, but we took our time playing with the Code O and catching fish. Our first night at anchor was spent tucked inside a protected bay, sheltered from the South China Sea swell. While Jamie barbecued the albacore, we watched small boats ferrying families and workers home just before the evening rain hit.
This story is from the February 2021 edition of Yachting Monthly.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the February 2021 edition of Yachting Monthly.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
TECHNICAL 'OUR BOAT WAS FULL OF WATER'
After an afternoon away, Roger Hughes had to act quickly when he found his schooner-rigged yacht sinking at its Florida marina mooring
HOW IT WORKS OPTIMISING SAIL TRIM
It is difficult to describe ‘correct’ sail shape, but the three most important things to consider are: sail draft (the fullness of the sail), draft position, and twist (controlled by the kicker /vang and leech tension).
HEBRIDEAN HIDEAWAYS
There are some incredible hidden harbours along the west coast of Scotland, many offering 360° shelter, although some may be rather challenging to enter
Mark lines to save miscommunication
This year, I spent my holidays working in the French Figaro class. My role was to be a préparateur – the French name for someone whose job it is to prepare and fix boats before and after races.
It's time for Deliveroo by canoe
Can we agree that it’s an old myth that sailors survive entirely on Fray Bentos pies and ‘pot mess’? Certainly on Skylax mealtimes are something to look forward to as both Rod and I love cooking.
Freak waves are lurking closer than you think
Salvage tug captain Nick Sloane can claim a library of feats of derring-do.
£33m government funding to develop green technologies for ports and ships
Maritime Minister Lord Davies has announced the winners of £33 million of government funding to develop green technologies for ports and ships as part of the decarbonisation of the sector.
Eight bells for C&N yacht designer Raymond Wall
Yacht designer Raymond Wall passed away in November at the age of 91 after a long and illustrious career.
OGR IRC leader returns with severe damage
Translated 9, the leading IRC yacht in the Ocean Globe Race was forced to divert to the Falkland Islands after discovering two cracks on the hull, one of which was big enough to sink the boat in heavy weather.
Celebrating 200 years of the RNLI
The Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) officially celebrates its 200th birthday on 4 March.